Tag Archives: Sam Bryant

richard-nicoll-LFW-2011

New Beauty Breakdown – LFW Richard Nicholl, Spring/Summer 2012

Makeup Director Sam Bryant | Sponsored by MAC | Report by Celine Bopp

One of the high points of London Fashion Week is always Richard Nicholl’s exquisite show, and this year was no exception. Here’s what Sam’s team leader Celine Bopp had to say:

“The girls at Richard, oh my word…sensational. Gorgeous lunar skinned highlighted girls, and the inspiration for Richard’s collection was from a unfinished film in the 1960s called L’Enfer. Think groovy chic, babydoll silhouettes, a simply amazing collection.

Sam created the look for the girls coming up with a 60’s feel, by taking a 60’s liner and adding a conceptual twist.

The girls had dreamy lunar skin, absolutely gorgeously highlighted, and a dewy, minimal base was created using MAC Face and Body foundation, just to cover any imperfections and give it a sheer feel. A slight contour was used on some of the girls if they needed it using a foundation shade darker than their skin tone. The lashes were curled and MAC Shell Cream Colour Base was used to highlight the girls on the cheekbones, bridge of nose, cupid’s bow, and every body part that wasn’t covered by clothes. The conceptual liner was made out of a matte black tape, cut out in exact oblong shapes and put in a titled placement on the outer corner of the eye. In the line up Sam added an extra highlight on each girl, using white iridescent powder.”

John Rocha Spring:Summer 2012

New Beauty Breakdown – LFW, John Rocha Spring/Summer 2012

Makeup Director Sam Bryant - Report by Celine Bopp

London Fashion Week had its most exciting season in ages with amazing shows, both for the clothes and the hair and makeup looks. London is traditionally where the fash pack cut loose with their creativity and go for looks that are less ‘safe’ (as you usually get in New York, or even Paris and Milan). This season was no exception with lots of 90’s grunge references, big brows, outrageous back combed hair, dip dyed nails and even stick on eyeliner! The MM LFW backstage correspondent is again fabulous London makeup artist Celine Bopp who was on a number of teams this season, including Sam Bryant, Kay Montano, Florrie White and Alex Box, and we’re lucky enough to have the first of her backstage reports here:

John Rocha Look – Shadowy Androgyny

“Taking a cue from last season’s look Sam created a grungy shadowy androgen look, keeping the skin light and pale with shaded eyes and sculpted cheeks.

Using MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown we shaded inner, outer, socket line and under the eye.  We followed with a grey shadow, MAC Typographic to intensify, layering up the colours gave the look an edge, something interesting, grading the shades.

Using MAC Sand Brown Pro Sculpting Cream to sculpt the cheeks when needed, and followed by MAC Shadowy Sculpting powder to intensify the cheek.

The luminizer was MAC Shell Cream Colour Base dusted over the lips and cheek bones.”

 

 

London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl, Autumn Winter 2011

London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl, Autumn Winter 2011Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

Sponsored by MAC

 

The girls at Richard had very defined eyebrows, with a ‘finished and sporty’ glow, dewy and alive, but always cool.

Skin

The skin was perfected and kept cool toned using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation.

Eyebrows

Squared off and elongated using MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Spiked and Stud (depending on the model’s colouring).

Contouring

Using three tones on the cheeks, MAC Cream Colour Base in Sand Brown to create the cheek bone, Cheek Matt low on the cheeks, with a touch of Ginger Cream Blush in the middle, all beautifully blended together. Divine.

Highlights

Beautiful highlights were placed on the cheekbones, bridge of nose, inner eyes, Cupid’s bow and chin using Vaseline and MAC Silver Dusk powder

Lips

Just buffed off with cotton bud and left au naturel.

London Fashion Week – Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2011

London Fashion Week Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2011Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

Sponsored by MAC

 

The theme of this show was a dancer, just come out of dance class, fresh faced and innocent. Beautiful.

Skin

MAC Face & Body foundation for a very sheer base, and only if the model needed it. Super fresh skin.

Eyebrows

Brushed up using MAC Eyebrow Gel

Eye

A tiny line blended into the socket line of MAC Evil eye shadow, barely there, just enough to see as she blinks her eye.

Cheek

A flushed cheek, using a mixture of MAC Lilicent and So Sweet So Easy cream blushes to make it look like she’d been working out.

Lip

The natural colour of the lips was brought out by mixing either MAC Lip pencils in either Beet, Dervish or Spice, with a little Vaseline, and then blotted to take out any glossiness.

Simply Divine!

 

 

London Fashion Week – John Rocha show, Autumn Winter 2011

Celine Bopp doing makeup at the John Rocha show

 

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Sam Bryant

Inspiration

This season the John Rocha girls were just on their way to Glastonbury to work on the circus, a bit grungy fresh, with a conceptual lip. Feral eyebrows.

Skin

Fresh skin was the look, using MAC Face and Body foundation a fraction paler than their skin tone, so that the skin felt real on the girls.

Becca Shimmering Skin Pefector was used for highlighting nose, chin, cheeks and a wash over the eyelid.

Cheek

A fleshy coloured cream colour (MAC Uncommon Blush Crème) was placed just at the low front part of the cheek, just a suggestion, not heavy.

Eyebrows

Real hair was finely chopped and added into the girls brows to make them big and ‘feral’!

Lip

MAC Vino Pencil  was used to create the strong v-shaped lip, top lip sharp with a softened lower lip, giving it a grungy but not too grungy feel.

MAC Silver pigment and MAC Mixing Medium was used to acccentuate the cupids bow.

Finally a light dusting of Ben Nye Translucent powder, not too heavy, just to take off the shine.

Abbey-Lee Kershaw

 

 

 

London Fashion Week – Betty Jackson show Autumn Winter 2011

London Fashion Week Betty JacksonMakeup Mole @LFW

Well not actually me in person if you haven’t guessed, but the Mole has her spies everywhere! This time around my superspy superstar backstage makeup artist is Celine Bopp, one of my oldest and dearest London makeup friends. Celine was first assistant to major makeup artist Sam Bryant for over three years, where she worked constantly with photographers like Tim Walker and celebs like Natalie Portman. She has also assisted Alex Box and Kay Montano on a regular basis for a number of years, and is a fabulous makeup artist in her own right, now working independently on jobs like Hugo Boss and McQ by Alexander McQueen.

For London Fashion Week this year she was on Sam Bryant and Alex Box’s team – here she shares with us the look at Betty Jackson (one of my favourite shows to work on. Great girls, great clothes and great makeup – what more could a girl ask?)

BETTY JACKSON
Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC

Inspiration
Think Patti Smith grunge, smokes a lot of fags and doesn’t pluck her eyebrows. Tobacco stained girls with a touch of Violet from the Incredibles. Amazing.

Foundation
Pale skin using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation

Brows
Thick elongated brows with MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Stud and Spiked (an MM favourite!)

Eyes
Tobacco eye – Like a nicotine wash over the whole lid, slightly squared off at the brow, buffing in MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia

Cheeks
MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia was used as the lighter colour, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown was used at the back of cheekbone to create the contoured intensity

Lips
Lip are nude by paling them down with MAC Lip Erase in Dim

Accents and Highlights
MAC Polished Ivory Paint Stick was used to create this, no shimmer!

Powder
Finished with a light dusting of Powder with either MAC Shimmering White or Translucent

www.maccosmetics.com

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl show

Richard Nicholl ShowOur final report of the week comes from Richard Nicholl’s show – predictably another standout show from the Aussie designer.

The makeup from Sam Bryant’s team was either a wash or purple or a wash of orange on the eyes. These were created using a mixture of textures – creams, shimmer powders, and pigment mixed with MAC Mixing Medium.

The show was sponsored by MAC.

Purple and Orange Eyes

Base – MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, with MAC Pearl Cream Color Base as a highlight

Eyes – Purple

Apply a  color wash of purple crème all over eyelid, from lash line to browbone

Mix MAC Fuchsia pigment with MAC Makeup mixer and apply to outer corners for intensity

MAC Swish Frost eyeshadow

Eyes – Orange

MAC Dusty Coral Paint Stick washed all over eye

MAC Basic Red Paint Stick blended and washed into the Dusty Coral

Blush – Powder blush blended right into the temples and hairline (the product used was a Mineralize duo that’s not yet available)

Lips – Dab crème colors over lips with fingertip and blend

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – John Rocha Show

John Rocha Antique Dolls London Fashion WeekThe look for John Rocha was very antique dolls – Sam Bryant’s team on makeup, and Sam Hillerby on hair.

Base – MAC Face and Body in C1, to make the girls slightly paler than their natural color

Eyes – Illamasqua palette in Solstice over the entire lid up to the brow.

MAC Gold pigment dusted over lid and into the crease to really add definition, and also up into the brows, onto the temples and over the cheekbones.

Then to make the shape more Egyptian, MAC Mixing Medium was added to the Gold pigment and worked into the inner and outer eye corners to make a more unusual eye shape.

Cheeks – Ben Nye Orange and Pink cream blushes, mixed together applied in an upside down triangle shape to cheeks, then blended well

Lips – The same Ben Nye cheek colors were used on the lips.