Makeup Director Sam Bryant - Report by Celine Bopp
London Fashion Week had its most exciting season in ages with amazing shows, both for the clothes and the hair and makeup looks. London is traditionally where the fash pack cut loose with their creativity and go for looks that are less ‘safe’ (as you usually get in New York, or even Paris and Milan). This season was no exception with lots of 90’s grunge references, big brows, outrageous back combed hair, dip dyed nails and even stick on eyeliner! The MM LFW backstage correspondent is again fabulous London makeup artist Celine Bopp who was on a number of teams this season, including Sam Bryant, Kay Montano, Florrie White and Alex Box, and we’re lucky enough to have the first of her backstage reports here:
John Rocha Look – Shadowy Androgyny
“Taking a cue from last season’s look Sam created a grungy shadowy androgen look, keeping the skin light and pale with shaded eyes and sculpted cheeks.
Using MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown we shaded inner, outer, socket line and under the eye. We followed with a grey shadow, MAC Typographic to intensify, layering up the colours gave the look an edge, something interesting, grading the shades.
Using MAC Sand Brown Pro Sculpting Cream to sculpt the cheeks when needed, and followed by MAC Shadowy Sculpting powder to intensify the cheek.
The luminizer was MAC Shell Cream Colour Base dusted over the lips and cheek bones.”
Alexa Chung is a bit of an MM fave as she’s lovely, cool, has the wardrobe that everybody wants and she’s rather gorgeous as well. Here’s a beautiful shoot she did in Paris recently as a Chanel Cruise exclusive for the Australian edition of Harper’s Bazaar, shot by Angelo Pennetta. Known for her lovely cat eyes and signature flicked eyeliner it was a bit of an exciting day since she agreed to wear a bright lip. I think she looks phenomenal!
I have a breakdown from her regular makeup artist, the wonderful London-based Florrie White who reveals what she used on an impeccable summer day on the lovely Alexa:
Decleor Sun Expert – it was so hot in the magnificent Parisian garden. Alexa did not complain while I hid in the shade guzzling cold water!
None – she has perfect skin and I love her freckles.
Chanel Long Lasting Concealer only under her eyes.
Due to the heat and the clean skin I just used Givenchy’s Mister Matte to control any shine.
MAC Cream Blush in Cheery and Cherche
MAC Eye Pencil in Smolder
Lancome Hypnose Mascara
Chanel Ilusion d’Ombre Emerveille, Epatant, Illusoire, Mirifique used individually and/or mixed together, blended and changed around throughout the shoot.
MAC Pro Lip Mix in Orange
Dior Vernis Underground 824
Here’s a gorgeous behind-the-scenes video showing Florrie at work:
For ages I’ve been wanting to write a post about wine coloured lipsticks as they’ve been having a moment in my kit the last few months, but recently I’ve been crushing on other colours too – pinks and raspberries and fuchsias.
So I thought – let’s cover them all off in one big sangria drenched lip festival!
From deep claret to almost black bordeauxs, and into chocolates and blackberries, I love a deep, opulent rich lip.
Favourite lipsticks for this are:
MAC Lipmixes – to mix up your favourite shade
Illamasqua Growl and Poison
NARS Velvet Matte Pencils in Damned and Cruella
NARS Lipstick in Scarlet Empress
YSL Rouge Pur Couture in 8
Estee Lauder Pure Colour in Plum Couture
Pinks and Sangrias
A deep, bold claret lip is not always appropriate, let’s be real. Sometimes one wants a stain, or more of a juicier version. Lighter-bodied lipsticks include:
MyFace Strawberry Fields and Cherry Bomb
Chanel Ballet Russes
Clinique Black Honey (this has iconic status in Lip Lovers’ World)
This is my current hot colour preference for a statement lip – nothing says you got it goin’ on like a hot fuchsia. My current go-tos are:
Tom Ford Perfect Pink
If you want to go for a glossy version of the above, a clear gloss would suffice (I’m a MAC lipglass in Clear fan myself) or you could punch up a wine lip with the following glosses:
MyFace Lip Pop Gloss in Crazy in Love
Bobbi Brown Rich Colour Lip Gloss in Pink Raspberry
NARS Hot Wired or Easy Lover for pinks
NARS Rose Birman for Wine
When wearing a strong lip, you can either dab the lipstick on with your fingers for a casual take on the look, or layer on at least two coats using a good lipbrush (I like the Shu Uemura Lip Brush). If you find you have an unsteady hand, a matching lipliner can be useful for giving a super precise, finished look.
Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Alex Box | Sponsor – MAC
As Alex’s assistant, Celine Bopp, so rightly says “The girls at Gareth Pugh… well, well, well! Another extravaganza from the Box.” Alex describes the look of the show as “religious iconography”.
Celine says “The girls and boys in the show this season were sensational, along with those clothes and the colour that Pugh sneaked into his collection this year was fab – black, gold and blue… beautiful.”
Foundation: The models’ base was kept minimal using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation to match the girls’ skin tone, and the cheeks were left relatively sheer and fresh so to see the natural skin flesh tone.
Eyes: The eye pads were stuck underneath the models’ eye, with either a gold or a blue winged out shape, using ‘secret material’.
Face Gloss: MAC Lipglass in Clear, and Gloss Brilliance was placed on the cheekbones and cupid’s bow.
The boys didn’t wear the mystery winged out shape under their eyes but they had amazing highlights and textures on their skin which looked gorgeous. We used MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, MAC Lipglass, Strobe Cream, and a few different MAC Reflecting Pigments to get the effect that Alex wanted.
I’ve posted this breakdown before but I couldn’t resist posting it again, as it was on the cover of the Observer magazine in the UK this weekend. It’s such an extraordinary photo, and an extraordinary makeup – done by none other than Kay Montano! Here’s what she used on the world’s biggest pop star.
Kay Montano on the Hello Kitty Shoot: “Gaga art directs everything! She is a stream of ideas and suggested I paint Japanese cartoon style eyes on her eyelids which added a surreal edge to what would otherwise have been a cutesie look.”
Base: Chanel Vitalumiere in No. 20 Clair
Powder: Chanel Traslucent powder to create the perfect base
Eyes: Make Up For Ever Flash Colors 12 color box of crème makeup to paint exaggerated green Japanese eyes on her eyelids, with MAC Prep+Prime to set
Eyeliner: Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink
Mascara: Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in black
Lashes: 2 sets of MAC eyelashes, one on the browbone to create false top lash
Lips: Chanel Coco Pink lipstick (US exclusive), then silver (Fardel silver powder mixed with water).
Skin: The girls were given flawless skin, using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation and Prep + Prime primer.
Highlights: MAC Vanilla Pigment was used to highlight the face and mouth.
Contour: MAC Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Beige was used to contour and define the cheekbone.
Eyes: A sheer wash of colour could be seen across the girls’ eyelids in cream eyeshadow in Blasé andpowder eyeshadow in Lady Grey.
Eyebrows: A lovely natural but brushed upwards look was given to the girls’ eyebrows
Lips: Beautiful dark lips were the focal point for the Anne Valerie models, dark plum winey lips using MAC Portside Cremeliner to line the lips, andPrince Noir Lipstick. (This is turning out to be a serious season favourite, showing up on quite a few shows).
Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC
The girls at Richard had very defined eyebrows, with a ‘finished and sporty’ glow, dewy and alive, but always cool.
The skin was perfected and kept cool toned using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation.
Squared off and elongated using MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Spiked and Stud (depending on the model’s colouring).
Using three tones on the cheeks, MAC Cream Colour Base in SandBrown to create the cheek bone, Cheek Matt low on the cheeks, with a touch of Ginger Cream Blush in the middle, all beautifully blended together. Divine.
Beautiful highlights were placed on the cheekbones, bridge of nose, inner eyes, Cupid’s bow and chin using Vaseline and MAC Silver Dusk powder
Just buffed off with cotton bud and left au naturel.