Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Alex Box | Sponsor – MAC
As Alex’s assistant, Celine Bopp, so rightly says “The girls at Gareth Pugh… well, well, well! Another extravaganza from the Box.” Alex describes the look of the show as “religious iconography”.
Celine says “The girls and boys in the show this season were sensational, along with those clothes and the colour that Pugh sneaked into his collection this year was fab – black, gold and blue… beautiful.”
Foundation: The models’ base was kept minimal using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation to match the girls’ skin tone, and the cheeks were left relatively sheer and fresh so to see the natural skin flesh tone.
Eyes: The eye pads were stuck underneath the models’ eye, with either a gold or a blue winged out shape, using ‘secret material’.
Face Gloss: MAC Lipglass in Clear, and Gloss Brilliance was placed on the cheekbones and cupid’s bow.
The boys didn’t wear the mystery winged out shape under their eyes but they had amazing highlights and textures on their skin which looked gorgeous. We used MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, MAC Lipglass, Strobe Cream, and a few different MAC Reflecting Pigments to get the effect that Alex wanted.
I’ve posted this breakdown before but I couldn’t resist posting it again, as it was on the cover of the Observer magazine in the UK this weekend. It’s such an extraordinary photo, and an extraordinary makeup – done by none other than Kay Montano! Here’s what she used on the world’s biggest pop star.
Kay Montano on the Hello Kitty Shoot: “Gaga art directs everything! She is a stream of ideas and suggested I paint Japanese cartoon style eyes on her eyelids which added a surreal edge to what would otherwise have been a cutesie look.”
Base: Chanel Vitalumiere in No. 20 Clair
Powder: Chanel Traslucent powder to create the perfect base
Eyes: Make Up For Ever Flash Colors 12 color box of crème makeup to paint exaggerated green Japanese eyes on her eyelids, with MAC Prep+Prime to set
Eyeliner: Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink
Mascara: Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in black
Lashes: 2 sets of MAC eyelashes, one on the browbone to create false top lash
Lips: Chanel Coco Pink lipstick (US exclusive), then silver (Fardel silver powder mixed with water).
Skin: The girls were given flawless skin, using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation and Prep + Prime primer.
Highlights: MAC Vanilla Pigment was used to highlight the face and mouth.
Contour: MAC Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Beige was used to contour and define the cheekbone.
Eyes: A sheer wash of colour could be seen across the girls’ eyelids in cream eyeshadow in Blasé andpowder eyeshadow in Lady Grey.
Eyebrows: A lovely natural but brushed upwards look was given to the girls’ eyebrows
Lips: Beautiful dark lips were the focal point for the Anne Valerie models, dark plum winey lips using MAC Portside Cremeliner to line the lips, andPrince Noir Lipstick. (This is turning out to be a serious season favourite, showing up on quite a few shows).
Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC
The girls at Richard had very defined eyebrows, with a ‘finished and sporty’ glow, dewy and alive, but always cool.
The skin was perfected and kept cool toned using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation.
Squared off and elongated using MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Spiked and Stud (depending on the model’s colouring).
Using three tones on the cheeks, MAC Cream Colour Base in SandBrown to create the cheek bone, Cheek Matt low on the cheeks, with a touch of Ginger Cream Blush in the middle, all beautifully blended together. Divine.
Beautiful highlights were placed on the cheekbones, bridge of nose, inner eyes, Cupid’s bow and chin using Vaseline and MAC Silver Dusk powder
Just buffed off with cotton bud and left au naturel.
Well not actually me in person if you haven’t guessed, but the Mole has her spies everywhere! This time around my superspy superstar backstage makeup artist is Celine Bopp, one of my oldest and dearest London makeup friends. Celine was first assistant to major makeup artist Sam Bryant for over three years, where she worked constantly with photographers like Tim Walker and celebs like Natalie Portman. She has also assisted Alex Box and Kay Montano on a regular basis for a number of years, and is a fabulous makeup artist in her own right, now working independently on jobs like Hugo Boss and McQ by Alexander McQueen.
For London Fashion Week this year she was on Sam Bryant and Alex Box’s team – here she shares with us the look at Betty Jackson (one of my favourite shows to work on. Great girls, great clothes and great makeup – what more could a girl ask?)
Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC
Think Patti Smith grunge, smokes a lot of fags and doesn’t pluck her eyebrows. Tobacco stained girls with a touch of Violet from the Incredibles. Amazing.
Pale skin using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation
Thick elongated brows with MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Stud and Spiked (an MM favourite!)
Tobacco eye – Like a nicotine wash over the whole lid, slightly squared off at the brow, buffing in MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia
MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia was used as the lighter colour, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown was used at the back of cheekbone to create the contoured intensity
Lip are nude by paling them down with MAC Lip Erase in Dim
Accents and Highlights
MAC Polished Ivory Paint Stick was used to create this, no shimmer!
Finished with a light dusting of Powder with either MAC Shimmering White or Translucent
I have to confess to not being a fan of Valentine’s Day generally – well not the sickly sweet chocolates and teddy bears version (unless you’re five, when it’s therefore age-appropriate and OK). Otherwise, really the flying cupids draped in red velvet and the love hearts on everything are just twee and make me feel vaguely ill.
Come on, we’re all grown ups, right? So in the spirit of Valentine’s Day in the raciest sense of the word, I bring you an Agent Provocateur video I worked on a couple of years ago, with the unbelievable Rosie Huntington-Whiteley playing the woman scorned. Fabulous director Greg Williams wrote and directed it, Kay Montano was on makeup, and Johnnie Sapong (one of my favourite hairdressers) was on hair. The set was closed (you’ll see why when you watch it!) and the AP underwear – well it speaks for itself.
Here’s my beauty recipe for a dangerous Valentine’s day – the kind you’re really looking forward to…
For a touchable body I’m loving Liz Earle’s delicious new Energising Body Lotion with Damask Rose Flower Water and Sweet Orange Oil (this is as sweet as this recipe gets).
For a sultry gaze, mix up MAC Smolder and Coffee eye khols and add a little bit of grease like Vaseline or Elizabeth Arden’s 8 Hour Cream. Not loads but enough to give it that just-been rumpled look. Add lots of Lancome Hypnose mascara for some serious bedroom eyes.
Cheeks should be softly blushed – I like a good cream blush. Becca make a fab selection of cream blushes that look amazing on – particular faves are Geranium, Turkish Rose, Wild Orchid and Amaryllis.
To gild your body I like Illamasqua’s Ether Powdered Metal, which provides a golden glow for fair skins whilst Powdered Metal in Thalia is beautiful on darker skins.
Nails also must be Illamasqua this Valentine’s as they have the best polishes around – I’ll be using Throb, a deep blood red, or Load, which is well, a gorgeous creamy, milky colour.
No Valentine’s day would be complete without a kiss! Dab on Myface Gigabyte Lipstick in Strawberry Fields or Cherry Bomb, and add a touch of their Lip Pop gloss in 136 for lips that would give Rosie a run for her money.
I’m sorry to devastate you all, but I heard a rumour swirling around on Twitter yesterday, and checked it on the website today – and it’s true! MAC’s amazing Blushcremes are no more.
Devastation is not the word! What shall I do without them? I have almost all of them and was planning to breeze into MAC at some point for the last couple I don’t own, only to find out they’ve gone to the great Makeup Box in the Sky. Oh Ladyblush, Pleasureful and Posey, what shall I do without you? Not to mention Cheery, Cherche and Laid Back. My clients’ cheeks will never be the same. If you have them I suggest you guard them jealously (because if I find out their location, I could well be coming over to do a midnight raid on your makeup stash. You have been warned).