Paris Fashion Week – GARETH PUGH – Autumn/Winter 2011

Posted on March 23, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Alex Box | Sponsor – MAC

As Alex’s assistant, Celine Bopp, so rightly says “The girls at Gareth Pugh… well, well, well! Another extravaganza from the Box.” Alex describes the look of the show as “religious iconography”.

Celine says “The girls and boys in the show this season were sensational, along with those clothes and the colour that Pugh sneaked into his collection this year was fab – black, gold and blue… beautiful.”

Foundation: The models’ base was kept minimal using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation to match the girls’ skin tone, and the cheeks were left relatively sheer and fresh so to see the natural skin flesh tone.

Eyes: The eye pads were stuck underneath the models’ eye, with either a gold or a blue winged out shape, using ‘secret material’.

Face Gloss: MAC Lipglass in Clear, and Gloss Brilliance was placed on the cheekbones and cupid’s bow.

The boys didn’t wear the mystery winged out shape under their eyes but they had amazing highlights and textures on their skin which looked gorgeous. We used MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, MAC Lipglass, Strobe Cream, and a few different MAC Reflecting Pigments to get the effect that Alex wanted.

Lady Gaga Hello Kitty photo shoot

Posted on March 21, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

I’ve posted this breakdown before but I couldn’t resist posting it again, as it was on the cover of the Observer magazine in the UK this weekend. It’s such an extraordinary photo, and an extraordinary makeup – done by none other than Kay Montano! Here’s what she used on the world’s biggest pop star.

Kay Montano on the Hello Kitty Shoot: “Gaga art directs everything! She is a stream of ideas and suggested I paint Japanese cartoon style eyes on her eyelids which added a surreal edge to what would otherwise have been a cutesie look.”

Base: Chanel Vitalumiere in No. 20 Clair

Powder: Chanel Traslucent powder to create the perfect base

Eyes: Make Up For Ever Flash Colors 12 color box of crème makeup to paint exaggerated green Japanese eyes on her eyelids, with MAC Prep+Prime to set

Eyeliner: Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink

Mascara: Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in black

Lashes: 2 sets of MAC eyelashes, one on the browbone to create false top lash

Lips: Chanel Coco Pink lipstick (US exclusive), then silver (Fardel silver powder mixed with water).

Paris Fashion Week – Anne Valérie Hash

Posted on March 16, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Director – Alex Box | Report by Celine Bopp | Sponsored by MAC

Skin: The girls were given flawless skin, using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation and Prep + Prime primer.

Highlights: MAC Vanilla Pigment was used to highlight the face and mouth.

Contour: MAC Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Beige was used to contour and define the cheekbone.

Eyes: A sheer wash of colour could be seen across the girls’ eyelids in cream eyeshadow in Blasé and powder eyeshadow in Lady Grey.

Eyebrows: A lovely natural but brushed upwards look was given to the girls’ eyebrows

Lips: Beautiful dark lips were the focal point for the Anne Valerie models, dark plum winey lips using MAC Portside Cremeliner to line the lips, and Prince Noir Lipstick. (This is turning out to be a serious season favourite, showing up on quite a few shows).

Paris Fashion Week – Colette Dinnigan Show

Posted on March 15, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Director – Kay Montano

Vogue’s Beauty Blog called this show look “strange beauty”. Kay told me she aimed for a “polished and perfected look with a subtle edge.”

Foundation: MyFace Mymix foundation

Powder: MAC Prep and Prime powder

Eyes: Bobbi Brown gel eyeliner in Black Ink. No mascara “as it gives a certain oddness which is interesting”, Kay said.

Lips: MAC Prince Noir lipstick applied to the innermost centre of the lips and smudged outward with a finger, creating a black cherry stain which was both sensual and innocent.

London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl, Autumn Winter 2011

Posted on March 10, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl, Autumn Winter 2011 Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

London Fashion Week – Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2011

Posted on March 8, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

Sponsored by MAC

The theme of this show was a dancer, just come out of dance class, fresh faced and innocent. Beautiful.

Skin

MAC Face & Body foundation for a very sheer base, and only if the model needed it. Super fresh skin.

Eyebrows

Brushed up using MAC Eyebrow Gel

Eye

A tiny line blended into the socket line of MAC Evil eye shadow, barely there, just enough to see as she blinks her eye.

Cheek

A flushed cheek, using a mixture of MAC Lilicent and So Sweet So Easy cream blushes to make it look like she’d been working out.

Lip

The natural colour of the lips was brought out by mixing either MAC Lip pencils in either Beet, Dervish or Spice, with a little Vaseline, and then blotted to take out any glossiness.

Simply Divine!

London Fashion Week – John Rocha show, Autumn Winter 2011

Posted on March 7, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Celine Bopp doing makeup at the John Rocha show

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Sam Bryant

Inspiration

This season the John Rocha girls were just on their way to Glastonbury to work on the circus, a bit grungy fresh, with a conceptual lip. Feral eyebrows.

Skin

Fresh skin was the look, using MAC Face and Body foundation a fraction paler than their skin tone, so that the skin felt real on the girls.

Becca Shimmering Skin Pefector was used for highlighting nose, chin, cheeks and a wash over the eyelid.

Cheek

A fleshy coloured cream colour (MAC Uncommon Blush Crème) was placed just at the low front part of the cheek, just a suggestion, not heavy.

Eyebrows

Real hair was finely chopped and added into the girls brows to make them big and ‘feral’!

Lip

MAC Vino Pencil was used to create the strong v-shaped lip, top lip sharp with a softened lower lip, giving it a grungy but not too grungy feel.

MAC Silver pigment and MAC Mixing Medium was used to acccentuate the cupids bow.

Finally a light dusting of Ben Nye Translucent powder, not too heavy, just to take off the shine.

London Fashion Week – Betty Jackson show Autumn Winter 2011

Posted on March 2, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Mole @LFW

Well not actually me in person if you haven’t guessed, but the Mole has her spies everywhere! This time around my superspy superstar backstage makeup artist is Celine Bopp, one of my oldest and dearest London makeup friends. Celine was first assistant to major makeup artist Sam Bryant for over three years, where she worked constantly with photographers like Tim Walker and celebs like Natalie Portman. She has also assisted Alex Box and Kay Montano on a regular basis for a number of years, and is a fabulous makeup artist in her own right, now working independently on jobs like Hugo Boss and McQ by Alexander McQueen.

For London Fashion Week this year she was on Sam Bryant and Alex Box’s team – here she shares with us the look at Betty Jackson (one of my favourite shows to work on. Great girls, great clothes and great makeup – what more could a girl ask?)

BETTY JACKSON
Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC

Inspiration
Think Patti Smith grunge, smokes a lot of fags and doesn’t pluck her eyebrows. Tobacco stained girls with a touch of Violet from the Incredibles. Amazing.

Foundation
Pale skin using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation

Brows
Thick elongated brows with MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Stud and Spiked (an MM favourite!)

Eyes
Tobacco eye – Like a nicotine wash over the whole lid, slightly squared off at the brow, buffing in MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia

Cheeks
MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia was used as the lighter colour, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown was used at the back of cheekbone to create the contoured intensity

Lips
Lip are nude by paling them down with MAC Lip Erase in Dim

Accents and Highlights
MAC Polished Ivory Paint Stick was used to create this, no shimmer!

Powder
Finished with a light dusting of Powder with either MAC Shimmering White or Translucent

www.maccosmetics.com

Valentine’s Day – The Naughty Version

Posted on February 10, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

I have to confess to not being a fan of Valentine’s Day generally – well not the sickly sweet chocolates and teddy bears version (unless you’re five, when it’s therefore age-appropriate and OK). Otherwise, really the flying cupids draped in red velvet and the love hearts on everything are just twee and make me feel vaguely ill.

Come on, we’re all grown ups, right? So in the spirit of Valentine’s Day in the raciest sense of the word, I bring you an Agent Provocateur video I worked on a couple of years ago, with the unbelievable Rosie Huntington-Whiteley playing the woman scorned. Fabulous director Greg Williams wrote and directed it, Kay Montano was on makeup, and Johnnie Sapong (one of my favourite hairdressers) was on hair. The set was closed (you’ll see why when you watch it!) and the AP underwear – well it speaks for itself.

Here’s my beauty recipe for a dangerous Valentine’s day – the kind you’re really looking forward to…

For a touchable body I’m loving Liz Earle’s delicious new Energising Body Lotion with Damask Rose Flower Water and Sweet Orange Oil (this is as sweet as this recipe gets).

For a sultry gaze, mix up MAC Smolder and Coffee eye khols and add a little bit of grease like Vaseline or Elizabeth Arden’s 8 Hour Cream. Not loads but enough to give it that just-been rumpled look. Add lots of Lancome Hypnose mascara for some serious bedroom eyes.

Cheeks should be softly blushed – I like a good cream blush. Becca make a fab selection of cream blushes that look amazing on – particular faves are Geranium, Turkish Rose, Wild Orchid and Amaryllis.

To gild your body I like Illamasqua’s Ether Powdered Metal, which provides a golden glow for fair skins whilst Powdered Metal in Thalia is beautiful on darker skins.

Nails also must be Illamasqua this Valentine’s as they have the best polishes around – I’ll be using Throb, a deep blood red, or Load, which is well, a gorgeous creamy, milky colour.

No Valentine’s day would be complete without a kiss! Dab on Myface Gigabyte Lipstick in Strawberry Fields or Cherry Bomb, and add a touch of their Lip Pop gloss in 136 for lips that would give Rosie a run for her money.

Let Rosie be your Valentine… or else!

RIP MAC Blushcremes

Posted on January 24, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

I’m sorry to devastate you all, but I heard a rumour swirling around on Twitter yesterday, and checked it on the website today – and it’s true! MAC’s amazing Blushcremes are no more.

Devastation is not the word! What shall I do without them? I have almost all of them and was planning to breeze into MAC at some point for the last couple I don’t own, only to find out they’ve gone to the great Makeup Box in the Sky. Oh Ladyblush, Pleasureful and Posey, what shall I do without you? Not to mention Cheery, Cherche and Laid Back. My clients’ cheeks will never be the same. If you have them I suggest you guard them jealously (because if I find out their location, I could well be coming over to do a midnight raid on your makeup stash. You have been warned).

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