Video: MAC SS13 Fashion Week – Key Trends with Alex Box

Let’s get this year started right with a lovely video from the amazing makeup artist Alex Box, who I used to assist in London and Paris. I love this video of her as it shows her extraordinary talent as a painter of faces and presents her as the calm and gorgeous presence that she is. I love being on her team for shows as even under the greatest pressure she never seems anything but unflappable, and is always kind and happy to explain the fine points of a makeup. In fact I’m lucky in that everyone I have assisted has been like that!  Watch the magic unfold…

 

Secret Weapon: MAC Matte

mac matte

I have had this incredible mattifying gel in my kit for about a decade now, and it’s what I rely on for clients with oily skin. It’s the best product I’ve ever used for eliminating shine (and believe me, I’ve tried a few). It’s a clear gel in a small tube that you pat onto the skin either over moisturiser or instead of (for very oily clients) through the T-zone. Voila! No more shine.

It’s a must have for makeup artists for male grooming as well (or for male MM readers who struggle with shine). For women it’s great to throw in your handbag for those hot summer afternoons when your forehead looks like a disco ball. Foundation then goes on like a dream as this primer seals the surface without looking fake or heavy, and it means you can use a lot less powder. No more afternoon cake face!

Mac Cosmetics UK
Mac Cosmetics Australia

 

Video: Kristen McMenamy by Miles Aldridge for MAC

I literally can’t get over this new ad for MAC’s Reel Sexy collection that has just been released. Shot by her husband photographer Miles Aldridge (who I worked with in London on quite a few occasions, assisting Kay Montano and Sam Bryant), it’s full of Miles’ hallmark super-saturated op art colour – not your everyday makeup. Thank goodness! If makeup ads can’t make you dream (in Technicolour) then what can?

The colours are incredible and totally in tune with my latest vow to re-stock my kit with new retina stinging shades. My upcoming trip to London will help immensely with that and I literally can’t wait to hit Screenface and Charles Fox for a colour fix. If you’re lusting after hot new tones too, great brands to try are MAC Pro, Illamasqua, Ben Nye, Kryolan and NARS. I for one plan on hitting all of them up before the end of my visit.

In the meantime, luxuriate in Kristen McMenamy’s opulent cinema-goer. Pre-released on nowness.com it’s the ultimate website for those who like their fashion with a side dish of art and interest, one of the best purveyors of fine content on the web.

 

McMenamy x M·A·C on Nowness.com.

In My Makeup Kit: MAC LipMixes

MAC Lipmix

These are, in a word, awesome. Super pigmented lipsticks in a deep cream formula that you dispense from a small artist tube, and you mix to custom blend your own shades. Amazing, right?

It’s so funny that I don’t blog about MAC more often (note to self, must rectify that). I think it’s because they are such a workhorse brand in my kit that I don’t think about them as much as I should do. Their products are just there, trusty, reliable, ready to be used on every single job. Also I think I overdosed on MAC when I was younger – the MAC counter at Harvey Nichols in London was one of my first destinations back in the 90’s, where I bought my first Spice lipliner – sadly it never looked as good on me as it did on Linda Evangelista –  and various shades of dead person brown lippy that were the shizzle back in those days.

Then MAC was the cornerstone of my kit for along time, and gradually I started to phase in loads of lovely new brands and products – Shu Uemura, Laura Mercier, Bobbi Brown, Illamasqua, NARS, Myface, Dior and Tom Ford and YSL – oh God stop me now! So because MAC was always there, and sponsoring the shows, and just around, I didn’t take so much notice when I used their lovely products in my kit.

But it’s time for me to get my MAC back on, and I thought Lip Mixes are a great place to start. Pretty much every makeup artist I know has these guys in their kit, as they come in – not that many shades, but once you start mixing, there’s no stopping you! Deep burgundy, bright red, pure orange, yellow, black, white, even blue shades mean that you can mix in different colours to create whatever shade you fancy. I love them as they are deep and velvety matte, and if you want to add gloss, well away you go once you’ve painted on your desire shade. Just add a lipbrush and a painter’s beret and voila! Instant Van Gogh (inspirational madness and severed ear not included).

MAC US | MAC UK | MAC Australia

New Beauty Breakdown – London Fashion Week, Thomas Tait SS12

London Fashion Week, Thomas TaitMake Up Director Alex Box | Report by Celine Bopp

Supremely chic, as the girls walked round the fluorescent light filled room, it had a sporty feel to the collection. The girls’ foundation was kept super minimal using a little MAC Studio Sculpt, and then the fun began! Using MAC Lip Mix in Yellow we blended a tiny bit on areas such as the creases of the arms and back of knees to give a bruise like feel. Then using a special effects’ product that was melted down in hot water, we created oblong shapes on parts of the body.  Each girl had an individual look, so some had shapes on their face and some on their legs and arms. Once it set on their skin we dusted MAC pigment in Reflects Teal, a pearly white, which was barely visible until they hit the fluorescent lights on the catwalk, giving flashes of light. Gorgeous girls, perfectly suited to Tait’s wonderful collection.

 

 

 

New Beauty Breakdown – LFW Richard Nicholl, Spring/Summer 2012

Makeup Director Sam Bryant | Sponsored by MAC | Report by Celine Bopp

One of the high points of London Fashion Week is always Richard Nicholl’s exquisite show, and this year was no exception. Here’s what Sam’s team leader Celine Bopp had to say:

“The girls at Richard, oh my word…sensational. Gorgeous lunar skinned highlighted girls, and the inspiration for Richard’s collection was from a unfinished film in the 1960s called L’Enfer. Think groovy chic, babydoll silhouettes, a simply amazing collection.

Sam created the look for the girls coming up with a 60’s feel, by taking a 60’s liner and adding a conceptual twist.

The girls had dreamy lunar skin, absolutely gorgeously highlighted, and a dewy, minimal base was created using MAC Face and Body foundation, just to cover any imperfections and give it a sheer feel. A slight contour was used on some of the girls if they needed it using a foundation shade darker than their skin tone. The lashes were curled and MAC Shell Cream Colour Base was used to highlight the girls on the cheekbones, bridge of nose, cupid’s bow, and every body part that wasn’t covered by clothes. The conceptual liner was made out of a matte black tape, cut out in exact oblong shapes and put in a titled placement on the outer corner of the eye. In the line up Sam added an extra highlight on each girl, using white iridescent powder.”

New Beauty Breakdown – LFW, John Rocha Spring/Summer 2012

John Rocha Spring:Summer 2012

Makeup Director Sam Bryant - Report by Celine Bopp

London Fashion Week had its most exciting season in ages with amazing shows, both for the clothes and the hair and makeup looks. London is traditionally where the fash pack cut loose with their creativity and go for looks that are less ‘safe’ (as you usually get in New York, or even Paris and Milan). This season was no exception with lots of 90’s grunge references, big brows, outrageous back combed hair, dip dyed nails and even stick on eyeliner! The MM LFW backstage correspondent is again fabulous London makeup artist Celine Bopp who was on a number of teams this season, including Sam Bryant, Kay Montano, Florrie White and Alex Box, and we’re lucky enough to have the first of her backstage reports here:

John Rocha Look – Shadowy Androgyny

“Taking a cue from last season’s look Sam created a grungy shadowy androgen look, keeping the skin light and pale with shaded eyes and sculpted cheeks.

Using MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown we shaded inner, outer, socket line and under the eye.  We followed with a grey shadow, MAC Typographic to intensify, layering up the colours gave the look an edge, something interesting, grading the shades.

Using MAC Sand Brown Pro Sculpting Cream to sculpt the cheeks when needed, and followed by MAC Shadowy Sculpting powder to intensify the cheek.

The luminizer was MAC Shell Cream Colour Base dusted over the lips and cheek bones.”

 

 

New Beauty Breakdown: Alexa Chung for Harper’s Bazaar Australia

Alexa Chung, Harper's Bazaar Australia

Makeup by Florrie White

Alexa Chung is a bit of an MM fave as she’s lovely, cool, has the wardrobe that everybody wants and she’s rather gorgeous as well. Here’s a beautiful shoot she did in Paris recently as a Chanel Cruise exclusive for the Australian edition of Harper’s Bazaar, shot by Angelo Pennetta. Known for her lovely cat eyes and signature flicked eyeliner it was a bit of an exciting day since she agreed to wear a bright lip. I think she looks phenomenal!

I have a breakdown from her regular makeup artist, the wonderful London-based Florrie White who reveals what she used on an impeccable summer day on the lovely Alexa:

Skincare

  • Decleor Sun Expert – it was so hot in the magnificent Parisian garden. Alexa did not complain while I hid in the shade guzzling cold water!

Foundation

  • None – she has perfect skin and I love her freckles.

Concealer

  • Chanel Long Lasting Concealer only under her eyes.

 Powder

  • Due to the heat and the clean skin I just used Givenchy’s Mister Matte to control any shine.

Blush

  • MAC Cream Blush in Cheery and Cherche

Eyes

  • MAC Eye Pencil in Smolder
  • Lancome Hypnose Mascara
  • Chanel Ilusion d’Ombre Emerveille, Epatant, Illusoire, Mirifique used individually and/or mixed together, blended and changed around throughout the shoot.

Lips

  • MAC Pro Lip Mix in Orange

Nails

  • Dior Vernis Underground 824

Here’s a gorgeous behind-the-scenes video showing Florrie at work:

 

Trend: Days of Wine and Roses

Wine Lips YSLWine lips aren’t just for winter

For ages I’ve been wanting to write a post about wine coloured lipsticks as they’ve been having a moment in my kit the last few months, but recently I’ve been crushing on other colours too – pinks and raspberries and fuchsias.

So I thought – let’s cover them all off in one big sangria drenched lip festival!

Wine Lips

From deep claret to almost black bordeauxs, and into chocolates and blackberries, I love a deep, opulent rich lip.

Favourite lipsticks for this are:

  • MAC Lipmixes – to mix up your favourite shade
  • Illamasqua Growl and Poison
  • NARS Velvet Matte Pencils in Damned and Cruella
  • NARS Lipstick in Scarlet Empress
  • YSL Rouge Pur Couture in 8
  • Estee Lauder Pure Colour in Plum Couture

Pinks and Sangrias

A deep, bold claret lip is not always appropriate, let’s be real. Sometimes one wants a stain, or more of a juicier version. Lighter-bodied lipsticks include:

  • MyFace Strawberry Fields and Cherry Bomb
  • Chanel Ballet Russes
  • Clinique Black Honey (this has iconic status in Lip Lovers’ World)
  • MAC Plumful

Fuchsia

This is my current hot colour preference for a statement lip – nothing says you got it goin’ on like a hot fuchsia. My current go-tos are:

  • Illamasqua Atomic
  • Tom Ford Perfect Pink
  • NARS Schiap

If you want to go for a glossy version of the above, a clear gloss would suffice (I’m a MAC lipglass in Clear fan myself) or you could punch up a wine lip with the following glosses:

  • MyFace Lip Pop Gloss in Crazy in Love
  • Bobbi Brown Rich Colour Lip Gloss in Pink Raspberry
  • NARS Hot Wired or Easy Lover for pinks
  • NARS Rose Birman for Wine

When wearing a strong lip, you can either dab the lipstick on with your fingers for a casual take on the look, or layer on at least two coats using a good lipbrush (I like the Shu Uemura Lip Brush). If you find you have an unsteady hand, a matching lipliner can be useful for giving a super precise, finished look.