MAC Silver Dusk

Secret Weapon – MAC Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk

With New York Fashion Week just gone and London Fashion Week about to kick off it seems only fitting to pay homage to one of my favourite products, MAC Silver Dusk powder. This one is an oldie but a goodie and it can come out to play on so many occasions that it’s always in my kit. On the face it gives that perfect hit of illumination to all the high points you might want to emphasise, such as the browbone, cheekbone or Cupid’s bow of the lips, and it’s lovely with a big brush along the clavicles and shoulders as well.

Principally I like to have it for editorial work as it provides eye popping highlights exactly where you want, yet the shimmer is so fine that it doesn’t look jarring or OTT. It’s like moonlight in a jar, perfect for a soft, ethereal romantic finish or you can build it when you want to do full-on disco strobe highlights (I think we all have those days sometimes).

I haven’t covered many luminisers on MM in the past, which isn’t because I don’t like them. I use a highlighter of some description on pretty much every makeup I do as it just adds such beautiful dimension to the face, but I think I MIGHT have overdosed on them a few years ago. Not literally of course – imagine that, glowing like a light bulb from too much highlighter! But I fell in love with them in the early 2000’s (well hello MAC Strobe Cream and NARS Copacabana) and just kept adding to my collection – Becca and Benefit, Illamasqua Gleam Cream and Revlon Skinlights… the list, and my collection, just went on and on. Since even as a makeup artist it takes half a century to get through even one of those sparkly little tubes and pots, I never really felt like writing about them.

But I was going through my kit again the other day, doing yet another decanting session, and I wanted to start covering some of my hero products that I use job in and job out. Not everything has to be new to be wonderful! Silver Dusk also feeds in perfectly with the metallic trend that’s coming out of NY this week – silvery glitter eyes at Donna Karan, gold highlighter at Sass and Bide (both courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury) and even pink glitter lips from James Kaliardos at Rodarte.

Black skins needn’t feel left out either (as Silver Dusk is quite a wintry, pale colour and better on paler skin tones) since MAC Mineralize Skinfinishes shimmer powders are divine as a highlight on black skin. My classic go-to highlighter for darker skins in the Mineralize Skinfinish is Shooting Star.  For olive skins I’m very partial to NARS Gold Rush powder. Judicious highlighting never goes out of style!

JASON-WU-AUTUMNWINTER-2014

Video: NYFW Jason Wu Autumn/Winter 2014

It’s that time of year again when all the models and makeup artists and hair stylists and designers and backstage photographers all congregate to show us what we’ll be wearing in the coming months. New York kicked it off on the 6th of Feb, and here is a fab video of Behind the Scenes on the Jason Wu show.

Renowned in previous seasons for having strong red lips or gold glitter on eyes, this year it was stripped back minimalism at its best. Makeup artist Diane Kendal created a look that paired beautiful skin with a masculine brow. One of my favourite hairstylists, Frenchwoman Odile Gilbert, was on hair creating an undone, messy chignon. Modern luxury at its best.

Lulu Guinness Clinique

Right Now: Lulu Guinness and Clinique set

How cute is this exclusive Lulu Guinness bag for the Great Ormond St Hospital Children’s charity? Lulu Guinness has partnered with Clinique to raise money for the Kiss It Better charity (which was set up by Carmel Allen for children with cancer), and has created 10 of her ‘Izzy’ satchels in a Limited Edition pink that  retails for £550, with 100% of the proceeds going to the charity. Each purse is hand signed by Lulu, making it a real collector’s item, and it also contains ALL of the Clinique Chubby Sticks, which I’m a little bit obsessed with at present.

I’ve been a huge fan of Lulu Guinness and her beautiful purses and accessories for ages, and I had the pleasure of doing her makeup in London for an event a few years ago. Let me tell you, this is a lady who knows red lipstick! She’s a fabulous woman and I’m not surprised she’s involved with such a great charity.

So if you like beautiful handbags, Clinique Chubby Sticks (AND WHO DOESN’T?) and helping sick children in need, consider buying yourself a belated Christmas present. Available exclusively from the Clinique website for the month of February. Be quick, as I know these won’t last long.

Available exclusively at www.clinique.co.uk and House of Fraser

Glitter-Eyes-Chanel

New Beauty Breakdown! Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014

Ah the couture. Magical clothes that are made by the world’s most skilled artisans, and designed by the greatest fashion minds of our time, with price as no object. Could there be anything more beautiful?

The redoubtable Karl Lagerfeld has done it again at the Chanel Haute Couture show last week, creating a dazzling collection that culminated in Cara Delevigne as the bride, wearing trainers. Which sounds like so many shades of wrong until you see it, when you realise it captures fashion’s current mood perfectly.

And the makeup! Peter Philips has done it again with a simple, ethereal gorgeous makeup featuring a silver glitter liner under the eye. Here’s the Chanel products he used:

COMPLEXION

  • Perfection Lumiere Velvet New Foundation Collection (available in April)
  • Eclat Lumiere concealer
  • Poudre Universelle Libre

THE EYES

  • Ligne Graphique de Chanel “Noir-Noir” (N°10)
  • Le Crayon Khol “Clair” (N°69)
  • Mascara Volume de Chanel “Black” (N°10)
  • Eyelash Curler de Chanel
  • Crayon Sourcils
  • Le Sourcil de Chanel

THE CHEEKS

  • Blush Joues Contraste “Espiègle” (N°65)

 THE LIPS

  • Rouge Coco Shine “Satisfaction” (N°89) – (from the “Variation” Collection available March)

THE NAILS

  • Le Vernis “Frisson” (N°543)

PS If you want to get your paws on that silver glitter, MAC do a fabulous range of glitters, or a theatrical makeup store should be able to help you find something just as gorgeous. I like Screenface, Charles Fox or Guru Makeup when I’m in London, or in Sydney you could try my favourite makeup artist store, Scotty’s Makeup on Broadway.

Isabel Marant

Video: BTS at Isabel Marant Spring 2014

Happy New Year, y’all! I hope everyone had a wonderful break over Christmas and 2014 has started the way YOU like – whether that’s with a bang or with an easy slide into the new year (not with credit card debt, a pile of stuff you need to re-gift, and an extra 5 kgs comprised of Lindt balls, champagne and ham. That’s not what we’re looking for. At all).

It is a new year but we ARE NOT going to talk about the New You – please refer to this amazing post from ThandieKay.com as to why not . It’s self-love not self-hatred, healthy eating, not diets and being happy in your skin that counts in 2014.

However we ARE going to refer to the new Isabel Marant Spring collection for what effortless, lush skin, perfectly groomed (but simple) brows and lips look like, along with possibly the best collection to stride down last season’s catwalk. Because, quite frankly, with those clothes who needs piles of makeup?

And PS if you DO have a habit that needs changing (I for one have decided I need more straight up and delicious salads in my life, every day), I’ve discovered the app Little Bit to help you make sure what you want to do each day gets done.

orange lipstick

Right Now: Orange is the New Everything

I’m currently obsessing over orange. Lipstick, to be precise, although I am partial to a good orange eyeshadow (or blush for that matter) on occasion too.

Flicking through the new Paris Vogue I saw this gorgeous image from a beauty shoot with Diane Kendal (who I love, love, love) and shot by David Sims. Dripping with gloss, as orange as a tangerine or a Mexican sunset it’s sexy, 70’s and like a modern spin on Guy Bourdin – another hot reference point this season.

So I’ve been beefing up my orange selection of shades in my kit in hopes of busting out a few titian tones on shoots early in the New Year (bring that on, is all I can say).

Kit Classics

  • MAC Morange – ah, such an old faithful. If I could only carry one orange, it would be this one.
  • Illamasqua Flare – Lighter than Morange, but still a neon bright burst of citrusy goodness
  • MAC Vegas Volt – I love the off-ness of this colour and have used it on an early 60’s inspired Marilyn Monroe shoot for its sick Technicolour properties.
  • Revlon Carnival Super Lustrous Lipstick - Quoted as “Neon orange bitch lips” in the press (which if that isn’t a name to make you run out and purchase, I don’t know what is), this is the lip that Gucci Westman  created for the Rag and Bone Spring/Summer 2014 runway show. Mix Mischevious Matte Balm, which will be out in January, and the yet to be released Carnival and you’ll be good to go do what Neon Bitches do.
  • MAC Orange Lip Mix - A classic, opaque orange.
  • Chanel Excentrique Rouge Allure – all the gorgeousness you expect from a Chanel lipstick, with a bright tangerine hue which is gorgeous with a tan.
  • Tom Ford Wild Ginger – hot orange, like only Tom Ford could do. Also an honorary mention to Tom Ford True Coral which is another bonkers salmon pink that I adore. Think Norma Desmond on acid and you’re halfway there.
  • Laura Mercier Tunisian Moon – this is another subversive orange. Grace Kelly would have loved this.
  • NARS Heat Wave – an intense orange-red. Also new NARS Short Circuit Cinematic lipstick from the Limited Edition Guy Bourdin collection also bears checking out. It’s described as Fire Coral – ‘Nuff said!

And to get you even MORE in the mood for some disco under the mistletoe, here’s the BTS ad campaign for the extremely gorgeous  NARS Guy Bourdin collection for Holiday with the lovely Toni Garn showing us how to do lips and eyes right. (The redoubtable Diane Kendal is weaving her makeup magic on this video as well – let’s just say it’s a Diane Kendal kind of day.)

 

Since nothing says Christmas like glossy orange lips (well at MM HQ, anyway),I’d like to say Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year to all my lovely readers. I’m so ready for 2014 I can’t tell you! (2013, don’t let the door hit you on the ass on the way out).

So whether you ring in this New Year with golden eyes, luxe lashes, cat eyeliner or the most fluoro of orange lips, have a fantastic break and I look forward to seeing you all in the New Year. Ring-a-ding-ding!

Alexa-Chung-Eyeko

Right Now: Alexa Chung for Eyeko

How cute is this tutorial from British It girl, Alexa Chung? She’s paired up with Eyeko, the super-cool makeup brand to create the ultimate eyeliner pen and pitch black mascara. So if you’ve ever envied her signature cat’s eyes, you now know where to get them from. Although you might also need a little bit of luck – the range sold out on the first day at Selfridges in London, and there was such a crush to get a glimpse of the star that they almost had to close down the store. That’s a seriously successful beauty collab right there!

 www.eyeko.com

Bobbi Brown BB Cream

The Foundation Files – Bobbi Brown BB Cream

I’ve been very naughty – I’ve been using this for nearly a YEAR without telling you about it. In fact, I’ve nearly finished the tube and I haven’t said a word. Let’s just say it’s a very rare thing for me to finish a foundation – I always switch them out for whatever new one I happen to be testing. But this one – I just keep going back to it.

The finish is perfect – it’s like a souped up tinted moisturizer. It melts into the skin, eradicating any redness or discoloration that you might have. It never looks masky and it has just the right amount of glow to look like – well, like nothing at all. Like Mother Nature really, really likes you.

I love the practical black tube which you can toss in your handbag or kit, and for a BB cream it comes in a decent range of shades – 9 in total. Like all BB foundations it covers the skin spectrum from alabaster to mahogany. (One of the many reasons I do love her range of makeup so).

I was super skeptical of BB creams when they first came out, which is why I was so late to that party – they seemed to me like a cynical rebranding of tinted moisturisers. I’m always a bit wary of new products that get released as there is a fair amount of Emperor’s New Clothes that goes into makeup. New! Shiny! Fantastic! Exactly like something that came out four years ago that we’re hoping you’ve forgotten about!  Plus the first BB creams that I tried only came in about two colours – fantastic for the two people who happen to come in those shades! The rest of us? In the too hard basket.

That is, until I tried the Bobbi Brown BB Cream for a foundation article I was writing, and I was sold, hook line and sinker. These *MAY* even make it into my kit when I do a foundation reorganize. You never know your luck in the big city.

www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com.au

The beauty insider