I had heard of London makeup artist Florrie White quite some time before I got the chance to assist her in London, as I knew her work from being a credits stalker on magazines like Vogue and Pop and Numero. Florrie started her makeup career as the English uber makeup artist, Charlotte Tilbury’s first assistant, and her career has only gone from strength to strength from there.

Currently working with celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane Krueger and Amanda Seyfried, she is also turning into something of the London It Girls makeup artist, looking after Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung on a regular basis. Her editorial work has appeared in Vogue (UK/US/Russian/Chinese), I-D, Pop, Love and Harper’s Bazaar, amongst others.

I had the opportunity to assist Florrie quite a few times whilst I was in London, and whether it was on a show or a shoot, she had such a lovely way about her. I discovered that not only is she a cracking makeup artist, she’s also one of the nicest people you’ll ever meet. Relaxed and calm under pressure, she trusts you to do your work and just get on with it. (She also has awesome taste in shoes, but that’s another story).

Without further ado, here is her Interview:

1. What are you working on at the moment?

I have just returned from Paris after heading the Yohji Yamamoto menswear show. It was my 3rd season and I adore being involved with such a creative and true designer. I went straight into a shoot for Giles Deacon Resort styled by Katie Grand and shot by Angelo Pennetta. I have a fashion show sponsored by L’Oreal for Marie Claire tomorrow and then I am really looking forward to working again with Britain’s new fashion muse and one of the most beautiful, funny and generous people I have ever met, Alexa Chung. We are shooting the cover for UK’s Harpers Bazaar with Ellen von Unwerth. This all is keeping me out of trouble – nearly!

2. Favourite makeup job ever?

Very difficult to say but UK Vogue story shot in Alaska with Jessica Stam in which we left her on a glacier and flew around her on a helicopter taking shots is a very high contender.

3. Top 5 products?

Givenchy Acti-Mine Wake-up Skin Make up base in Mango, Elizabeth Arden Powder pencil in Espresso, Bobbi Brown Long Wear gel eyeliner, Lancome Hypnose Mascara and Chanel Rouge Coco Shine lipsticks – all of them!

4. Best makeup tip ever?

Always use a freshly sharpened eye pencil for heightened precision. I don’t see the point of carrying around an eye pencil with out a pencil sharpener.

5. How did you get started in the business?

I did a course at Glauca Rossi School of make-up in London and then became first assistant to Charlotte Tilbury after being her PA for 6 months. I was very lucky to be taken on by my agent Emma Bryant only after a few months after I finished assisting. I am still represented by Emma at D+V Management.

6. How is it different to when you started?

I think I was lucky to get started just before the industry became flooded with new hopefuls. I think that now it may be more difficult to make the transition from being an assistant to being an established make up artist in your own right.

7. Favourite looks for the next coming season?

I love glamour, I adore products, I admire beautiful women. Pat McGrath’s make up at Louis Vuitton epitomises this aesthetic.

8. What do you love doing in your spare time?

Food is my other passion. I am waiting for the thunderstorm to pass in London right now so I can get on my bike and head into Soho to try out the new diner style bar called Spuntino.

Florrie’s full portfolio can be viewed online at www.dandvmanagement.com

Photo by Jacie at www.youvegotnail.com

Today we have a special treat as I have an interview with the Founder and Joint MD of Illamasqua, Julian Kynaston. Recently named as the fastest growing makeup company EVER, he has good reason to be proud of the cult UK makeup brand that he started a little over two years ago and has taken the world, quite literally, by storm. It has heralded in a new era of pride in the art of wearing makeup – not just through the arresting visuals (part of the genius of their Creative Director, Alex Box), but in the incredible pigment pay off of the products that allows you to play and experiment in completely unique way. Other makeup companies have had this ethos in the past, but now most counters on the makeup floor play it pretty safe – but never Illamasqua! Here’s what Julian had to say when I spoke to him:
 
1. What prompted you to create Illamasqua?

People told me that the only way to make an impact in the global make up market was to have in excess of 25 million pounds or take 25 years. We had neither but love a challenge. We believe in out-thinking and not outspending competition

2. Why did you get involved with the Sophie Lancaster foundation?

We were setting out to build a brand which would empower women to wear make up louder and bolder than ever before and for men to wear make up way beyond the cliche of eyeliner and concealer. Somewhere else Sophie Lancaster was killed for being a Goth – murdered for the way she chose to look and live her life. It felt natural to work with Sophie’s mum Sylvia to help build the charity and spread the message to Stamp Out Prejudice Hatred and Intolerance Everywhere ( S.O.P.H.I.E)

3. How did Joe Corre come to be involved with Illamasqua?

When Joe sold Agent Provocateur he wanted to launch a make up brand. Joe was introduced to Illamasqua and thought ‘wow’. He decided to play with us as our ideas were exactly the same as his ambitions for doing something very different in a very safe sector.

4. What’s coming up next for Illamasqua?

More own stores, fragrance (Joe Correis leading this, having already achieved rare commercial success with the first fragrance at Agent Provocateur) and as with Illamasqua… more and more inspiration for those who crave it.

5. What do you like doing in your spare time?

Thinking up ideas for Illamasqua, walking, shopping, Tweeting.

www.illamasqua.com

Tagged last month by British Vogue as one of the rising stars of the international creative firmament, New York based hairdresser James Pecis is going from strength to strength, booking editorials with photographers like Mario Testino, Liz Collins, Tim Walker, Miles Aldridge and Mariano Vivanco. His work regularly graces Harper’s Bazaar, British Vogue, Numero and V magazine, and aside from being a wonderful hairdresser he’s one of the nicest people I have ever worked with. Last time I worked with James we shot a TopMan Campaign together in London (with the rather gorgeous Louis Simonon, son of iconic Clash guitarist, Paul Simonon), and James is just such a wonderful person to be around. Plus he has the best tattoos I’ve ever seen – his hands alone are a work of art!

What are you working on at the moment?

Last week was Teen Vogue, French Vogue, Numero and now we are starting the campaigns for the season. It’s a fun and busy time.

Favourite hair job ever?

I don’t think there could be a favorite. I’m fortunate to get to do, see, and travel to amazing places for my job. I couldn’t have a favorite…  just lots of amazing memories and more to come.

Top 5 products?

1. Surf Spray by Bumble & Bumble
2. -Elnett hairspray by L’Oreal
3. -Tecni.Art Pli by L’Oreal
4. -Light Elements Texturising Cream by Aveda
5. -Water – by mother nature

Best hair tip ever?

Hair grows

How did you get started in the business?

Years of assisting and hard work.

How is it different to when you started?

A lot has changed in a short time. The obvious would be the switch from analog to digital and the use of new electronic medias and moving images. Most photo assistants today could not load a 5X4 back and most hairdressers could not do a full head of marcel waves properly with tongs. But the competition is stronger than ever before which increases the demand to not only be creative, talented, and professional, but you also need to be fast, nice, and have impeccable taste.

Favourite looks for the next coming season?

Girls being creative and styling their own hair. Twisting, braiding, back-combing, pinning…. Just developing their own styles. Mixes of vintage with modern. Having fun and enjoying playing with their hair.

What do you love doing in your spare time?

Hmmmm….spare time….not a lot of that…..I may get this new operation so I don’t have to sleep anymore. I can stay awake 24/7.  Then I’ll have more spare time. I like to keep my hands and mind busy. I sew, make books, make felt hats, stickers, write letters, spend time with friends, yoga, exhibitions, etc.

James is represented in New York and London by D+V Management.  You can view his portfolio at www.dandvmanagement.com

This is a lady who really needs no introduction, and I am very proud to include her in my Interviews. She is the most creative of makeup artists, the Creative Director of Illamasqua Cosmetics and a regular contributor to Italian Vogue, I-D, Numero and Harper’s Bazaar, to name but a few. She works with photographers like Nick Knight and Karl Lagerfeld and her work is renowned across the world for it’s completely iconoclastic and other-worldly approach to beauty. It’s makeup, but not as we know it.

On a personal level I have assisted Alex for over six years now in London, Paris (and even Sydney!) and she really is magic with a brush. Her makeup truly is art, and she is still one of the most wonderful, down to earth (and hilarious!) people I know. Without further ado, I give you The Interview:

1) What are you working on at the moment?

MY DRAWINGS. RESEARCHING AND COLLECTING MY THOUGHTS TOGETHER FOR ILLAMASQUA’S SPRING SUMMER COLLECTION AND TOP SECRET PROJECT THAT COMES OUT NEXT YEAR, BOTH INCREDIBLY EXCITING. I’M ALWAYS JOTTING DOWN IDEAS OR DRAWING LOOKS ON THE BACK OF SOMETHING OR IN MY SKETCH BOOK, I’VE ALWAYS WRITTEN INSPIRATIONAL QUOTES OR WORDS TO PROMPT ALTERNATIVE AVENUES OF THOUGHT, INSTEAD OFJUST CUTTING OUT PICTURES ALL THE TIME, BECAUSE I FEEL LIKE IT ALLOWS YOU TO GO OFF IN YOUR OWN WORLD MORE. MY HOUSE LOOKS LIKE A CRAFT SHOP AT THE MOMENT AND I KEEP FINDING DOUBLE SIDED GLITTER TAPE IN THE MOST UNUSUAL PLACES!

2) Favourite makeup job ever?

THATS EXTREMELY HARD, I ALWAYS LIKE TO SAY ‘THE BEST ONE IS THE NEXT ONE’, I DONT LOOK BACK MUCH, I’M ALWAYS THINKING ABOUT HOW MY OWN PRACTICE COULD EVOLVE AND BE IMPROVED OR FIND A NEW TECHNIQUE , THE HOLY GRAIL OF MAKEUP, THE PERFECT MOMENT. AS A BODY OF WORK DOING THE BOOK WAS DEFINITELY A FAVOURITE, IT WAS AN OPEN SKETCH BOOK, I TURNED UP AND WHATEVER WAS IN MY HEAD THAT DAY, THAT’S WHAT WE SHOT…THEN I WOULD GO HOME AND WORK ON THE DRAWINGS. I THINK ALONE DRAWING AND BEING ALONE PAINTING ON A MODEL AND BEING INSPIRED BY HER FACE AND ENERGY IS MY FAVOURITE…

3) Top 5 products?

THAT QUESTION ALWAYS FREAKS ME OUT BECAUSE I NEVER USE THE SAME THINGS OVER AND OVER, I’M A MAGPIE AND A HOARDER AND WILL USE BEAUTIFUL PIGMENTED LUXURY MAKEUP AT THE SAME TIME AS CHEAP HORROR KIDS FACE PAINTS…FORCED TO CHOSE I’D SAY…..

• ILLAMASQUA EYESHADOWS AND BLUSHERS
• ILLAMASQUA SATIN PRIMER
• MAC BEAUTY POWDERS
• LAURA MERCIER SECRET BRIGHTEN POWDERS
• BLACK AND LOVELY COLOURED HAIR SPRAYS

4) Best makeup tip ever?

BOLDNESS OF ATTACK, LET YOUR MIND AND SPIRIT BE FREE, THERE ARE ‘NO RULES’, YOU ARE YOUR OWN CREATION.

5) How did you get started in the business?

I WAS AN ARTIST WORKING PRIMARILY ON INSTALLATIONS USING THE BODY AS THE CENTER OF THE ART, AND MY FRIEND INTRODUCED ME TO A FASHION DESIGNER WHO USED DANCERS INSTEAD OF MODELS MUCH LIKE LEIGH BOWERY AND MICHEL CLARK. I DESIGNED THE MAKEUP LOOK FOR THE SHOW AND THROUGH OTHER PEOPLE SEEING MY WORK IN THAT CONTEXT I BECAME A MAKEUP ARTIST. MY ART WORK IN THE FRAME OF FASHION BECAME ‘MAKEUP’.

6) How is it different to when you started?

YOU ARE MUCH MORE VISIBLE NOW, THE BUSINESS IS ALMOST TRANSPARENT, THE RISE OF BACK STAGE FILMING ETC AND NEED FOR CONTENT HAS MADE AN UNSEEN WORD PERMEABLE. I DO LAMENT THIS BECAUSE THE WORLD OF FASHION NEEDS IT SECRETS, THAT’S WHAT MAKES IT ALLURING, WITHOUT MYSTERY YOU HAVE NO MAGIC WITHOUT MAGIC YOU HAVE NO BELIEF.

7) What do you love doing in your spare time?

RUNNING, DRAWING, STARING INTO SPACE, TAKING CLOSE UP MICRO PHOTOS OF NATURE. MAKING SURE I TAKE IN THE ‘DETAILS OF LIFE’…

8) What are your favourite looks for the coming Autumn/Winter season?

I DONT REALLY PAY MUCH ATTENTION TO LOOKS…I NEVER KNOW WHAT TO SAY HERE….I JUST WANT TO SEE THE ‘LOOK’ OF CONVICTION AND CONFIDENCE REGARDLESS HOW YOU CHOSE TO PAINT YOUR FACE.

Here is Illamasqua’s new Brand Film as well, explaining their roots in sub-culture and pre-war Berlin. And frankly any makeup film that references Fritz Lang’s Metropolis – well I’m in!

Kabuki is something of a legend in the fashion industry, having risen so rapidly up through the ranks of top makeup artists to reach the level he is now in just a few short years. He is Ms Kylie Minogue’s makeup artist and is currently travelling with her (having just wrapped Paris Fashion Week!) and within the business he is renowned for being a ‘makeup artist’s makeup artist.’ Born in London and based in New York, Kabuki has worked with some seriously major names, beginning with the first two series of Sex and the City (and if you don’t remember changing your makeup routine to emulate Carrie Bradshaw’s noughties gorgeousness, you must have been living in a yurt in Tibet). Since then he has created memorable looks for Lady Gaga, Gwen Stefani and Madonna, and is still a regular contributor to Italian Vogue as well as US Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Allure and Numero.

His incredible use of colour and theatrical take on fantasy make his work both opulent and unmissable, but he can also create an understated modern beauty look for clients like Gwyneth Paltrow when required. He has recently been appointed the Creative Director of myface.cosmetics (one of MM’s favourite brands!)

I was very lucky to get a moment with him.Here is his interview:

1 – What are you working on at the moment?

I just finished shows for New York and Paris fashion week so first on my list of things to do:  regain sanity. I’m working on my paintings in my upstate New York home while my agent fills in my schedule for the winter.

2 – Favorite makeup job ever?

Michael Jackson. He was lovely to be around and we had some great conversations about the legendary people he knew. Sadly, the Matthew Rolston and Bruce Weber shoots with him turned out to be the final shoots he ever did.

3 – Top 5 Products

1. Myface Blingtones
2. Dior Show Mascara
3. Nars Aqua Gel Hydrator
4. Myface Mymix Foundation
5. MAC #33 Lashes

4 – Best Makeup tip ever

Apply your makeup at a table so you can rest your elbows and have a steady hand. Make sure you have enough light to see properly. If you make mistakes, clear them with pointed Q-tips dipped in a non-oily remover, such as Crealine.  Even if you’re wearing just a little makeup, it looks bad if it’s not cleanly applied. Not the most exciting answer but, honestly, it will improve your result more than anything else I could tell you.

4 – How did you get started in the business?

I wasn’t unknown in the New York City club scene of the 1990’s so I was on designer/stylist Patricia Field ‘s radar. She plucked me out of the crowd to paint Sarah Jessica Parker’s face for a new TV show called SEX AND THE CITY. Then I worked on some movies, including PARTY MONSTER. Then Steven Klein saw that and called me for an Italian Vogue shoot. Then Madonna saw the Italian Vogue shoot and called.  And the ball was officially rolling.

5 – How is it different to when you started?

The longer you’re around, the more relationships you acquire. In the beginning, I think maybe some people were unsure about me for whatever reason: maybe my name sounded odd, maybe some of my over-the-top looks made them nervous. But after they meet me and work with me, they know I’m professional and just there to create a beautiful make-up that fits within their context.

6 – What do you do in your spare time?

Drawing and painting mostly.  I always bring a sketchbook and mechanical pencil with me when I travel, and I travel pretty often.

7 – What are your favorite looks for the coming Autumn/Winter season?

I like the trend towards more bold and glamorous make-up for the coming season that I’ve seen at the shows.  Clean and fresh is nice too, but nothing says “glamour” and “sexy” like a strong makeup look.

www.kabukimagic.com

www.myfacecosmetics.com

Find them on Facebook My Face Cosmetics

Follow them on Twitter @myfacecosmetics

Dutch-born makeup artist Ellis Faas certainly has the eye of a painter, and the soul of an artist. Growing up in the Netherlands with a very artistic family, she first wanted to be a photographer but quickly grew frustrated by the technical side of photography, and more and more drawn to the magic being created on the face on the other side of the camera.

This bloomed quickly into an editorial career that within the space of a few years had her working on all the major magazines around the globe with top photographers like Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchalier, Vincent Peters, Karl Lagerfeld, Paolo Roversi, Terry Richardson and Jean-Baptiste Mondino. Her intuitive and often startling use of colour has made her highly respected in the industry, and the sumptousness of her makeup work was always distinctively hers.

She has now turned her considerable talents to her line of makeup available around the world. The Ellis Faas line is designed to make women’s hectic lives simpler, more streamlined, and yes, more beautiful. The idea is simple – to re-work the basic elements of a woman’s makeup needs into a sleek container that chicly and snuggly fits in your bag, and can be used when needed – and to be gorgeous enough to use in public.

I met Ellis in London late last year when she launched her line at Liberty’s of London, and not only is she a lovely person and a great makeup artist, her line of cosmetics is a practical and elegant solution to the age old problem of the overflowing, disorganized makeup bag. I love the colours of her line which are all based on the human body – the bruisy browns of the creamy eyeshadows are incredible, and the quality of the concealers and foundations are superb. Plus, Ellis Red lipstick really does suit everyone!

Even though they are only a young brand, they’ve already been voted Editor’s Favourites at Allure and Glamour. We are lucky enough to have an interview with the lady herself.

1) What are you working on at the moment?
At this very moment, we are preparing the launch of our new products: five eye highlighters. They are not merely highlighters, because these are liquid, but they dry upon application, and then the Lights give the illusion of having a small metallic sheet on the eyelid. It was quite a challenge to come up with the right texture and the right pigments, but I think you are going to like them!

2) Favourite makeup job ever?
That’s difficult… I tend to have best memories because of the team and what happened on the set. But if I have to choose a great team in combination with makeup that I am really proud of, that would be a beauty shoot for Numéro by Jean-Baptiste Mondino.

3) Top 5 products?
Of our own brand? Our foundation, concealer, mascara, “Creamy Eyes” eye shadow and Ellis Red lipstick.

4) If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their makeup, what would it be?
I don’t believe in giving rules of dos and don’ts, but if there is one thing that women have to keep an eye on is choosing the right shade of foundation. Apart from that, I just hope that people will experiment and will develop their own sense of beauty, without listening what people like me are “advising”.

5) How did you get started in the business?
I have always liked makeup, but initially, I wanted to become a photographer – also because I didn’t even know that makeup could be a profession. Making photos I always used a lot of makeup, and more and more I disliked the technical aspect of photography and but instead was drawn to the intuitive side of doing makeup. Both is creating an image… And actually I never stopped photographing either, but never professionally until we started our own brand for which I take all the pictures.

My international career started after photographer Mario Testino saw my portfolio and asked me to work with him. After that the ball started rolling.

6) How is it different to when you started?
For me personally? That is the travel, and the needed flexibility because you never know when you have to leave for a job.

7) Which work are you most proud of?
My own brand!

8) What made you start your own line?
I made something that I missed in my own daily life. My professional kits were always very neat and organised, but I couldn’t stand my private makeup bag: different sizes, different ways of packaging, brushes and other applicators – and all of that stuffed into a bulging makeup bag. There once was a survey that women take longer to find a product in their bag than actually applying it, and it was exactly like that for me. Many brands try to come up with portable solutions, but then for instance they make palettes of which you only use one colour. So the main thing is that I wanted to come up with a solution that was practical, looked nice and gave women 100% flexibility. And the flexibility is also in the colours that suit all skin tones, and the application of the product is very easy for non-professionals.

9) What do you love doing in your spare time?
Like building my own brand, I also like to “build” things in spare time: so I’m always working on my house, my garden…

10) What are your predictions for the coming season for makeup?
I have no idea, because I never keep track of trends. But of course I hope the whole world will fall for liquid eye highlighters as THE thing to start using. And I know just the brand where they can find that ;).

On Wednesday, June 9th, Ellis will be at Liberty’s of London, answering questions from the audience and there is a chance to meet Ellis personally. I highly recommend a play with her lovely line, as it really is like nothing else on the market. There is a booking fee, but that is redeemable against sales on the night. Please call 020 7734 1234 ext. 2506.

The Ellis Faas line is sold in Liberty’s of London, Mecca Cosmetica in Australia, and Bergdorf Goodman New York. www.ellisfaas.com

Sophy is arguably the hottest manicurist in the world at the moment, having just finished the runway shows for Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood and Stella Macartney (not to mention creating the totally bad-ass ghetto nails at Henry Holland’s London show that were all over style.com), shot campaigns for Tom Ford, Longchamp and McQueen, and tended to the celebrity nails of Alexa Chung and every supermodel in the world – put it this way, Kate Moss is a regular. Not bad when only ten short years ago she was working in a nail bar in Soho!

She is loved in the industry for her sparkly personality and her endless technical skills – this is a lady who has custom blended fifty nail polishes for a runway show, has her own blog (which is ace by the way – check it out at www.sophyrobson.com for a real behind the scenes look at fashion), created the graded nail and basically invented this season’s trend, the Mannequin Nail. So without further ado, I bring you ten questions with the Nail Queen herself:

1) What are you working on at the moment?
I have just finished fashion week (thirteen shows!) come back and done a four looks nail story for Grazia and a Topshop make up and Armani campaign straight after so once I caught my breath, I am now working on a display for a press day next week at PR Mandi Lennard’s basement in Hoxton. I have never had a PR before so this is very exciting. I have also chosen a red polish for a new charity brand launching in April called All For Eve.

2) Favourite nails job ever?
I have enjoyed and felt fulfillment from many, many jobs. However, show-wise, I think my favourite was the first time I did the Louis Vuitton show last year, as working with someone like Marc Jacobs and an organisation as efficiently run as Louis Vuitton was both a demanding and rewarding experience. When I was re- booked again this season it was quite an honour for me, and the sense of accomplishment after we worked to produce another trendsetting nail for the runway is very high!

3) Worst nails job ever?
There was one nightmare job once but I have almost erased it from memory now. I don’t think the person in question is even in business any more so who cares!

4) Top 5 products?
Seche Vite – Dry Fast Top Coat
Solar Oil for cuticles
Diamancel nail files
Chanel Nail polish

5) If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their nails, what would it be?
STOP leaving your polish on for too long! This is the main cause of dehydration and yellowing of the nail plate.

6) How did you get started in the business?
Initially I was working for a trendy West end nail bar chain and I began to meet commercial models who would come in to get fake nails done for jobs. I was good at producing very natural looking fake nails, and began to collect their tearsheets from magazines as evidence of my work. Then I began to approach hair and make up agencies and it sort of went from there.

7) How is it different to when you started?
Nails have become big in fashion now. When I started there was barely any photographers or stylists that recognised the need for a manicurist. So the interest has increased, and generally manicurists are treated with much more respect than when I started. Also there are so many more opportunities now, as the demand for nails has grown so much.

8) Which work are you most proud of?
When the Mert & Marcus pictures of Erykah Badu in Tom Ford’s White Patchouli perfume appeared, I could not believe how good that image was. I felt like I was not likely to get a better representation of my work than that! The French Vogue cover of Laetitia Casta’s nails especially when someone told me it had been used as a reference for another shoot they were on. I am also proud of the “gradient” or Ombre” nails look as it started as a small post on my blog called “colour change nails” and went round the world. I love it when people write “I have never been that into nails until I saw this….”

9) What do you love doing in your spare time?
Well when I have some I love to spend time with my daughter… she is becoming like a teenager now so we do girly things together like shopping, going out for dinner, cinema or bowling. I also love staying at hotels and going running in the park.

10) What are your trend predictions for the coming season for nails?
Pastel blue nails and other candy colours. Nails are a fashion accessory now so you can be as adventurous and stylish as you like.

MakeupMole has been incredibly fortunate to have been granted a rare interview from world-famous perfumer and makeup artist, Serge Lutens. After more than forty years in the beauty business he has some rare insights to offer. I am very grateful to Mr Lutens for taking the time to answer my questions.

1) Aside from Serge Lutens Beaute, what are you working on at the moment?

To tell you the truth, to me it doesn’t even feel like working! Let’s just say things happened along the way. It’s not a job as such but the identity of a moment.

2) What was your favourite makeup job ever?

I would say that for me, makeup was not a choice, but it presented itself to me, and it transformed my imagination in that instant. Makeup is the medium that permitted me to create these images that represent an expression. The makeup is the passage from what is real to what is imagined, the passage of the white fixed by the powder…when the skin is transformed into stone. After this step, the rest is a continuation of the story and the way it is inscribed on the skin.

3) What was your worst makeup job ever?

The moment I was mistaken for a makeup artist!

4) Top 5 products you would recommend?

Who am I to recommend something? Makeup for me is not central. It is one of the things of which I construct my artistic vision. The product could be coal, flour or even a mask (Japanese Noh theatre remains one of the most beautiful in the world!) What interests me in the end is the ritual and what it means. The expression is more important than the instrument that creates it: the paint doesn’t make the painting or the pretty pen a writer!

5) If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their makeup, then what would it be?

If it is makeup for makeup’s sake then it is of no interest to me. If the makeup represents something one wants to express in that instant, it becomes an instrument and this is interesting, but not to be made up is also makeup in itself!

6) How is it different to when you started?

That’s a long time ago. By chance I was working in a hair salon, and two years later on a busy day, I cut a strand of hair that was for me, a rupture with what was surrounding me, and “I cut short” my hair career. This was an awakening!

7) Which work are you most proud of?
It has never been about work for me. I have made things and said things and written things – all have been instruments but none have been central.

8) What do you love doing in your spare time?

Free time at home is used doing the same things – I am always searching for something! I am permanently active. I don’t read books or watch films to distract myself because I am always searching for something.

Serge Lutens Beaute is available in the UK at Harvey Nichols London and in the US at Barneys New York.

Check out my review of Serge Lutens’s fabulous  lipstick here

Here at Makeup Mole it’s usually all about the makeup – makeup, makeup and more makeup, and when we’re done, for dessert? A healthy slathering of makeup!

But I have to confess today it’s not about the makeup, it’s about the hair – to be exact, an interview with the extraordinary, and very lovely hairdresser, Neil Moodie.

Neil has worked for a who’s who of the fashion industry, recently wrapping campaigns for Gap and Hugo Boss and tending the tresses of Harry Potter star Emma Watson. And as if that’s not enough, he’s also created a line of Pro styling tools called WAM that utilize his background from fashion shoots to create professional tools that deliver top of the line session hairstyling performance, at home.

I am by no means a top hairdresser, but I do love the innovative shape of the WAM hairdryer that gives you options on how to hold it, and it really is one of the slickest hair machines around. The curling tongs and straightening irons are equally high-performance and are regularly tested on the world’s supermodels! You can learn more about WAM Tools at www.wamhair.com.

************

Aside from WAM what are you doing at the moment?

Working on putting some beauty shoots together for a couple of big publications and working on some new Iconic head hats with Flora Mclean.

Favourite hair job ever?

Very tough question to answer but I think working on the Kate Moss Pictures with Corinne Day for the National Portrait gallery, because they will be part of the permanent exhibition there, so it makes them very special to me.

Worst hair job ever?

An advertising job in Paris about 8 years ago. it was my birthday and we worked until 4 in the morning, then a certain person who shall remain nameless but made the shoot so difficult for everyone, asked if I would cut their hair at 4am when the shoot ended – I had to do the haircut, and I’ve never forgiven them for being so mean and have always turned down working with them ever since, because I don’t court meanness!

Top 5 products?

Mason and Pearson Brush, Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray, WAM Hairdryer, WAM curling Irons and Japanese Serrated Pins.

If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their hair, what would it be?

Stop straightening their hair with straightening irons so it looks like a wig.  It never looks good and never will. It looks like they are trying to prove that they have a set of straightening irons, rather than proving they have great hair. It also ruins their hair too, so not a good idea all round! Please stop ladies!!!!!!

How did you get started in the business?

I’ve been hairdressing for 25 years this year and after working in salons for 10 years I met legendary photographer Corinne Day who asked me to do the hair for a shoot for The Face magazine after I colored the models hair pre- shoot as a favour. The original hairdresser who was to work on the shoot dropped out at the last minute due to other commitments, so Corinne called me and asked if I could step in. The rest is history!

How is it different to when you started?

Very!  The media coverage on the fashion industry has meant a lot more people are now wanting to work in fashion because they think it brings fame, but the people who really do well are actually successful because they are just really passionate about their work and don’t care about the fame.

Which work are you most proud of?

My first Vogue cover with Gisele. It feels like such an achievement to have a Vogue cover as there are only 12 a year. It was so exciting to see it on the shelf in newsagents.

I’m also proud of my hat collections, Iconic Heads, which I collaborated on with Flora McLean, because it took me out of my hair comfort zone, yet they’ve been very popular, which is a great feeling when you step outside of your work parameters.

What do you love doing in your spare time?

Running, yoga, watching tennis (and playing badly occasionally), watching movies and going to art galleries. I love listening to music with my headphones on too as it can change your mood immensely.

Marion Newman is one of the best manicurists in the world, with more Vogue covers to her name than any other nail artist. In addition to her extraordinary roster of high-fashion and celebrity clients, she’s managed to find time to launch her own line of nail polishes, the Inkredibles, that I’ve been loving ever since they came out. Today we’re lucky enough to have an interview with the lady in question.

1) Aside from Marian Newman Nails, what are you doing at the moment?

My ‘day job’, that is sessions work for editorials and advertising in the studio. Plus, Fashion Weeks come around so quickly!!

2) Favourite nail job ever?

Everything with Nick Knight! That includes 10 years of Dior. But I have to include my 12” spiral nails for Givenchy Couture and my ‘connected’ nails for Italian Vogue Giello.

3) Worst nail job ever?

I don’t mind but I do get a bit fed up with being asked for the ‘natural buff’! I’d like to think that I can do the best ‘natural buff’ but it doesn’t exactly challenge me!

4) Top 5 products?

My own ‘Right Here Nail Oil’, Dior Manicure Ridge Filler, Crème De La Mer Hand Treatment, my Glosser, my Wrapture Plus top coat. I created my products because I know what I need to perform in all circumstances so I can’t help but believe in them ‘cos they work!

5) If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their nails, what would it be?

Use a nail oil every day. I guarantee an improvement!

6) How did you get started in the business?

Doing nails? By doing a make up course! Sessions? Being asked to do ‘nails’ on a shoot with Nick Knight!

7) How is it different to when you started?

I was the first true sessions technician in the UK. Now, so many people think the job is easy! It’s not just the skill that is important. Fitting in and being a team player is just as important. So many believe that the job is easy and charge a fraction of the real sessions techs. Plus budgets are being cut all the time and retouching is so much more refined! I grew up with the fact that retouching costs a fortune and must be avoided at all costs. It’s different now. My son is one of the best retouchers so I know what can be put right, realistically, so quickly!

8) Which work are you most proud of?

I’d like to think that every piece of work is as good as it can be (but don’t we all!!!) Staying one of Nick Knights team for 12 years is what I’m most proud of. Anyone can do anything once or twice. Staying at that level for 12 years is something that I am very proud of. I’m also very proud of creating a brand that is genuinely something different in the world. In addition to having the ability and amazing loyalty of my colleagues (and my husband) to launch it into the market and achieve such amazing support from the beauty press and friends in the sessions world who continue to support me.

9) What do you love doing in your spare time?

Spending time with my children. Being creative with ideas. Just being at home. I have a new puppy so want to make her into a lovely family dog.

Marion’s range of nail products can be viewed at www.mariannewmannails.com

Kate Moss's iconic Calvin Klein ad

When your first job was a Face cover with Ray Petri, legendary creator of the Buffalo style, and you’re only 16 and you’ve never done a makeup job before, well where do you go from there? That’s easy, by the age of 18 you’ve racked up your first British Vogue cover and shows for John Galliano and Jasper Conran (and in those days, there were no assistants – just 15 models needing makeup, and you!) Then you’re doing Kate Moss for the iconic Calvin Klein Obsession ads, after moving to New York for the birth of grunge. You stay there for eight years, working for every major publication, fashion house and photographer, including Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, Bruce Weber, Steven Meisel, Patrick Demarchalier and Helmut Newton.

At the same time you start working with the world’s biggest celebrities, preparing them for red-carpet events and magazine features, including Salma Hayek, Penelope Cruz and Nicole Kidman. Moving back to London you become the new consultant to Chanel and combine your red carpet work with Kylie Minogue, Thandie Newton, Keira Knightley, Sienna Miller and Gwyneth Paltrow with major campaigns for Chanel and continuing to shoot for British, French and Italian Vogue.

Sound like a crazy dream? Well if you’re Kay Montano, that’s your life. Twenty five years of experience as a makeup artist has made Kay one of the most revered members of the industry, and today we’ve got an interview with her.

1. Favourite makeup job ever?

Toss up between American Vogue in Vietnam with Kate Moss and Bruce Weber, a Prince video (also had the divine Argentinean actress Mia Maestro whose eyes I covered in purple as an homage to Prince) and the two Calvin Klein ads  (Kate Moss in Virgin Islands, Amber Valetta in Panama) I did on paradisiacal beaches.

2. Worst makeup job ever?

Let’s just say there are a lot of people in fashion who need to do a lot of work on themselves, who are not given boundaries because others benefit too much from overlooking their dysfunction.

Daria, Kate Moss and Lara Stone by Bruce Weber

3. Top 5 products?

Chanel Vitalumiere foundation, Chanel eye pencil in Ambre, Bobbi Brown Black Gel Eyeliner, Shu Uemura eyelash curler, M Lab moisturiser.

4. If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their makeup, what would it be?

Stop over-plucking your eyebrows, you look really weird. Strictly makeup only? Experiment & have fun for chrissakes!

5. How did you get started in the business?

Via clubbing and meeting pop stars.

6. How is fashion different to when you started out?

It is totally mainstream with none of the sophisticated sub-culture that I was fortunate enough to grow up marinating in. It is also completely cross-referenced now. Before, there were always VERY distinct tribes with distinct differences.

7. Which work are you most proud of?

Strangely, seeing as I’ve done a lot of prestigious and edgy editorial, it’s actually the most classically beautiful work like the covers and my red carpet work as this is where skill, effort and experience come into play and where I feel I can make the biggest difference, the biggest impact.

8. What do you love doing in your spare time?

I love to practice yoga, walk in the park, go to my local and spend time with my new puppy Quincy Jones.

Is there anything else that you’d like to talk about?

I want to bring back subculture and not have everyone feel ‘style-ruled’ by the fashion press. Ignore us! Do your own thing & dance to your own drum.