New Beauty Breakdown – LFW Issa show Spring-Summer 2012

Posted on September 19, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Hot Like Rio!
Makeup by Kay Montano

The inspiration for the gorgeous, glowing makeup at the Issa show at London Fashion Week this season was Bo Derek in ‘10’. It was a super sexy, vibrant, colourful show (complete with Ana Beatriz in full-on carnival headdress and costume) and the makeup made the girls look like Ipanema goddesses. Here’s what Kay used:

Foundation

MyFace MyMix foundation

Powder

Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder

Luminiser

Revlon SkinLights in Warm Glow on the tops of the cheekbones

Bronzer

NARS Laguna to contour, shade and sun-kiss the girls

Blush

Stila Convertible Colour in Poppy

Eyes

Chanel Eyeliner pencil in Brun-Ciuvre smudged into lashline and on inner rim of eye
Chanel Ombre d’Illusion in Illusoire
Chanel Inimitable mascara in Noir

Lips

NARS Easy Lover gloss

Paris Fashion Week – GARETH PUGH – Autumn/Winter 2011

Posted on March 23, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Alex Box | Sponsor – MAC

As Alex’s assistant, Celine Bopp, so rightly says “The girls at Gareth Pugh… well, well, well! Another extravaganza from the Box.” Alex describes the look of the show as “religious iconography”.

Celine says “The girls and boys in the show this season were sensational, along with those clothes and the colour that Pugh sneaked into his collection this year was fab – black, gold and blue… beautiful.”

Foundation: The models’ base was kept minimal using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation to match the girls’ skin tone, and the cheeks were left relatively sheer and fresh so to see the natural skin flesh tone.

Eyes: The eye pads were stuck underneath the models’ eye, with either a gold or a blue winged out shape, using ‘secret material’.

Face Gloss: MAC Lipglass in Clear, and Gloss Brilliance was placed on the cheekbones and cupid’s bow.

The boys didn’t wear the mystery winged out shape under their eyes but they had amazing highlights and textures on their skin which looked gorgeous. We used MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, MAC Lipglass, Strobe Cream, and a few different MAC Reflecting Pigments to get the effect that Alex wanted.

Paris Fashion Week – Anne Valérie Hash

Posted on March 16, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Director – Alex Box | Report by Celine Bopp | Sponsored by MAC

Skin: The girls were given flawless skin, using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation and Prep + Prime primer.

Highlights: MAC Vanilla Pigment was used to highlight the face and mouth.

Contour: MAC Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Beige was used to contour and define the cheekbone.

Eyes: A sheer wash of colour could be seen across the girls’ eyelids in cream eyeshadow in Blasé and powder eyeshadow in Lady Grey.

Eyebrows: A lovely natural but brushed upwards look was given to the girls’ eyebrows

Lips: Beautiful dark lips were the focal point for the Anne Valerie models, dark plum winey lips using MAC Portside Cremeliner to line the lips, and Prince Noir Lipstick. (This is turning out to be a serious season favourite, showing up on quite a few shows).

Paris Fashion Week – Colette Dinnigan Show

Posted on March 15, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Director – Kay Montano

Vogue’s Beauty Blog called this show look “strange beauty”. Kay told me she aimed for a “polished and perfected look with a subtle edge.”

Foundation: MyFace Mymix foundation

Powder: MAC Prep and Prime powder

Eyes: Bobbi Brown gel eyeliner in Black Ink. No mascara “as it gives a certain oddness which is interesting”, Kay said.

Lips: MAC Prince Noir lipstick applied to the innermost centre of the lips and smudged outward with a finger, creating a black cherry stain which was both sensual and innocent.

Paris Fashion Week – Yves Saint Laurent

Posted on March 11, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Director – Pat McGrath

The YSL show is always considered to be a beauty bellwether – whereever Pat McGrath decides to take the models’ wearing Stefano Pilati’s gorgeous clothes, we can all expect to be following in her incredible footsteps’ next year.

This season there was a change on the lip colour right before show time – I don’t know whether we’d call it Lipgate, but the original, gorgeous strong violet lip colour was decided to be a little overpowering and minutes before show time Pat had her team remove the violet lip and replace it with a gorgeous, glossy nude. I love both but as always I think Pat made the right call. Can this woman do any wrong?

Here’s what she used (all products by YSL Beauté)

FACE

Pale polished skin, very neutral, touch of shimmer on cheeks

Teint Radiance N° 1 – Ivory
Touche Éclat N° 1 – Luminous Pink
Touche Éclat N° 2 – Luminous Ivory
Semi Loose Natural Radiant Powder N° 1
Highlighter – Ombres Duolumières N° 1 – Evenly Beige/ Astral Brown used on cheekbones to add touch of shimmer

EYES

Eyes sculpted in taupe – Ombre Duo Lumières N° 1 – Evenly Beige/ Astral Brown
Beautiful designed brows – Dessin des Sourcils N° 2 – Dark Brown
and Dessin des Sourcils N° 3 – Glazed Brown
Mascara Volume Effets Faux Cils N° 2 – Brown – on upper lashes only.

LIPS

Stunning chic coral beige lacquered mouth
Sculpted with Touche Éclat N° 1 Luminous Pink
Touche Éclat N° 2 – Luminous Ivory
Rouge Pur Couture N° 10 – Beige Tribute
mixed with new Rouge Pur Couture N° 36 – Coral Legend (available with the Fall Look 2011).
Topped off with Golden Gloss N° 11 – Golden Whisper – or a modern “patent” shine

NAILS

La Laque N° 14 – Transparent Pink

For more information about the products, please visit www.yslbeautyus.com

London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl, Autumn Winter 2011

Posted on March 10, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl, Autumn Winter 2011 Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

London Fashion Week – Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2011

Posted on March 8, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

Sponsored by MAC

The theme of this show was a dancer, just come out of dance class, fresh faced and innocent. Beautiful.

Skin

MAC Face & Body foundation for a very sheer base, and only if the model needed it. Super fresh skin.

Eyebrows

Brushed up using MAC Eyebrow Gel

Eye

A tiny line blended into the socket line of MAC Evil eye shadow, barely there, just enough to see as she blinks her eye.

Cheek

A flushed cheek, using a mixture of MAC Lilicent and So Sweet So Easy cream blushes to make it look like she’d been working out.

Lip

The natural colour of the lips was brought out by mixing either MAC Lip pencils in either Beet, Dervish or Spice, with a little Vaseline, and then blotted to take out any glossiness.

Simply Divine!

London Fashion Week – John Rocha show, Autumn Winter 2011

Posted on March 7, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Celine Bopp doing makeup at the John Rocha show

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Sam Bryant

Inspiration

This season the John Rocha girls were just on their way to Glastonbury to work on the circus, a bit grungy fresh, with a conceptual lip. Feral eyebrows.

Skin

Fresh skin was the look, using MAC Face and Body foundation a fraction paler than their skin tone, so that the skin felt real on the girls.

Becca Shimmering Skin Pefector was used for highlighting nose, chin, cheeks and a wash over the eyelid.

Cheek

A fleshy coloured cream colour (MAC Uncommon Blush Crème) was placed just at the low front part of the cheek, just a suggestion, not heavy.

Eyebrows

Real hair was finely chopped and added into the girls brows to make them big and ‘feral’!

Lip

MAC Vino Pencil was used to create the strong v-shaped lip, top lip sharp with a softened lower lip, giving it a grungy but not too grungy feel.

MAC Silver pigment and MAC Mixing Medium was used to acccentuate the cupids bow.

Finally a light dusting of Ben Nye Translucent powder, not too heavy, just to take off the shine.

London Fashion Week – Betty Jackson show Autumn Winter 2011

Posted on March 2, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Makeup Mole @LFW

Well not actually me in person if you haven’t guessed, but the Mole has her spies everywhere! This time around my superspy superstar backstage makeup artist is Celine Bopp, one of my oldest and dearest London makeup friends. Celine was first assistant to major makeup artist Sam Bryant for over three years, where she worked constantly with photographers like Tim Walker and celebs like Natalie Portman. She has also assisted Alex Box and Kay Montano on a regular basis for a number of years, and is a fabulous makeup artist in her own right, now working independently on jobs like Hugo Boss and McQ by Alexander McQueen.

For London Fashion Week this year she was on Sam Bryant and Alex Box’s team – here she shares with us the look at Betty Jackson (one of my favourite shows to work on. Great girls, great clothes and great makeup – what more could a girl ask?)

BETTY JACKSON
Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC

Inspiration
Think Patti Smith grunge, smokes a lot of fags and doesn’t pluck her eyebrows. Tobacco stained girls with a touch of Violet from the Incredibles. Amazing.

Foundation
Pale skin using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation

Brows
Thick elongated brows with MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Stud and Spiked (an MM favourite!)

Eyes
Tobacco eye – Like a nicotine wash over the whole lid, slightly squared off at the brow, buffing in MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia

Cheeks
MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia was used as the lighter colour, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown was used at the back of cheekbone to create the contoured intensity

Lips
Lip are nude by paling them down with MAC Lip Erase in Dim

Accents and Highlights
MAC Polished Ivory Paint Stick was used to create this, no shimmer!

Powder
Finished with a light dusting of Powder with either MAC Shimmering White or Translucent

www.maccosmetics.com

Beauty Breakdown – Gucci Westman for Revlon @Rag and Bone A/W 2011

Posted on February 14, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

I think I might have mentioned in a previous post how excited I am that Revlon current Global Artistic Director is Gucci Westman. I’m a big fan of hers – she has the perfect career mixing red carpet work and celebrities with beautiful editorial work in the world’s most prestigious magazines (most months will find her work gracing W magazine, Allure, and more than one Vogue, amongst others.)

Not only that but I just like her. I see her interviewed and she seems like a really nice person – switched on, relaxed and just plain cool, like someone you might actually want to be friends with. (It doesn’t hurt I would probably beat her up in a bathroom for her wardrobe as well – but then she is married to Rag and Bone’s co-founder, David Neville, so I guess style just runs in that family). Not to mention she has pretty single-handedly revived my interest in Revlon which is looking younger and fresher by the minute, plus I love that they’re getting their digital on lately. The products are great and in the US/UK you can’t go wrong with the price point – not so much in Australia but cosmetics in general are outrageously priced over here, so it’s not just Revlon that is expensive in Oz – and compared to a lot of other brands they’re still downright reasonable!

And now without further ado, here’s a breakdown of the latest look she created for Rag and Bone’s New York show for A/W 2011/12 yesterday. The inspiration was an “urban eskimo”.

Face

Revlon Cream Blush in Berry Flirtatious

Eyes

Revlon Crème Illuminance eyeshadow in Wild Orchid
Revlon Matte eyeshadow in Rich Sable
Revlon Luxurious Color Eyeliner in Black Velvet
Revlon Colorstay Liquid Liner in Blackest Black
Revlon Smoky Crayon in Black Smoke

Lips

Gucci Westman for Revlon lip palette in Bordeaux in the Snow (out later this year).

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