Category Archives: Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week – GARETH PUGH – Autumn/Winter 2011

Alex Box Makeup Paris Fashion Week Gareth Pugh Show

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Alex Box | Sponsor – MAC

As Alex’s assistant, Celine Bopp, so rightly says “The girls at Gareth Pugh… well, well, well! Another extravaganza from the Box.” Alex describes the look of the show as “religious iconography”.

Celine says “The girls and boys in the show this season were sensational, along with those clothes and the colour that Pugh sneaked into his collection this year was fab – black, gold and blue… beautiful.”

Foundation: The models’ base was kept minimal using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation to match the girls’ skin tone, and the cheeks were left relatively sheer and fresh so to see the natural skin flesh tone.

Eyes: The eye pads were stuck underneath the models’ eye, with either a gold or a blue winged out shape, using ‘secret material’.

Face Gloss: MAC Lipglass in Clear, and Gloss Brilliance was placed on the cheekbones and cupid’s bow.

The boys didn’t wear the mystery winged out shape under their eyes but they had amazing highlights and textures on their skin which looked gorgeous. We used MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, MAC Lipglass, Strobe Cream, and a few different MAC Reflecting Pigments to get the effect that Alex wanted.

Alex Box's Makeup - Paris Fashion Wee, Gareth-Pugh-Show

Paris Fashion Week – Anne Valérie Hash

Anne-Valerie Hash

Makeup Director – Alex Box | Report by Celine Bopp | Sponsored by MAC

Skin: The girls were given flawless skin, using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation and Prep + Prime primer.

Highlights: MAC Vanilla Pigment was used to highlight the face and mouth.

Contour: MAC Pro Longwear Eyeshadow in Beige was used to contour and define the cheekbone.

Eyes: A sheer wash of colour could be seen across the girls’ eyelids in cream eyeshadow in Blasé and powder eyeshadow in Lady Grey.

Eyebrows: A lovely natural but brushed upwards look was given to the girls’ eyebrows

Lips: Beautiful dark lips were the focal point for the Anne Valerie models, dark plum winey lips using MAC Portside Cremeliner to line the lips, and Prince Noir Lipstick. (This is turning out to be a serious season favourite, showing up on quite a few shows).
 

Alex Box Makeup Artist Paris Fashion Week

 

 

 

Paris Fashion Week – Colette Dinnigan Show

2011 Paris Fashion Week - Colette Dinnigan Show

Makeup Director – Kay Montano

Vogue’s Beauty Blog called this show look “strange beauty”. Kay told me she aimed for a “polished and perfected look with a subtle edge.”

Foundation: MyFace Mymix foundation

Powder: MAC Prep and Prime powder

Eyes: Bobbi Brown gel eyeliner in Black Ink. No mascara “as it gives a certain oddness which is interesting”, Kay  said.

Lips: MAC Prince Noir lipstick applied to the innermost centre of the lips and smudged outward with a finger, creating a black cherry stain which was both sensual and innocent.

 

Paris Fashion Week – Yves Saint Laurent

Paris Fashion Week – Yves Saint LaurentMakeup Director – Pat McGrath

The YSL show is always considered to be a beauty bellwether – whereever Pat McGrath decides to take the models’ wearing Stefano Pilati’s gorgeous clothes, we can all expect to be following in her incredible footsteps’ next year.

This season there was a change on the lip colour right before show time – I don’t know whether we’d call it Lipgate, but the original, gorgeous strong violet lip colour was decided to be a little overpowering and minutes before show time Pat had her team remove the violet lip and replace it with a gorgeous, glossy nude.  I love both but as always I think Pat made the right call. Can this woman do any wrong?

Here’s what she used (all products by YSL Beauté)

FACE

Pale polished skin, very neutral, touch of shimmer on cheeks

  • Teint Radiance N° 1 – Ivory
  • Touche Éclat N° 1 – Luminous Pink
  • Touche Éclat N° 2 – Luminous Ivory
  • Semi Loose Natural Radiant Powder N° 1
  • Highlighter – Ombres Duolumières N° 1 – Evenly Beige/ Astral Brown used on cheekbones to add touch of shimmer

EYES

  • Eyes sculpted in taupe – Ombre Duo Lumières N° 1 – Evenly Beige/ Astral Brown
  • Beautiful designed brows – Dessin des Sourcils N° 2 – Dark Brown
  • and Dessin des Sourcils N° 3 – Glazed Brown
  • Mascara Volume Effets Faux Cils N° 2 – Brown –  on upper lashes only.

LIPS

  • Stunning chic coral beige lacquered mouth
  • Sculpted with Touche Éclat N° 1 Luminous Pink
  • Touche Éclat N° 2 – Luminous Ivory
  • Rouge Pur Couture N° 10 – Beige Tribute
  • mixed with new Rouge Pur Couture N° 36 – Coral Legend (available with the Fall Look 2011).
  • Topped off with Golden Gloss N° 11 – Golden Whisper – or a modern “patent” shine

NAILS

  • La Laque N° 14 – Transparent Pink

 

For more information about the products, please visit www.yslbeautyus.com

 

 

Stop Press! Sophy Robson @ Paris Fashion Week

The nailista style sista London manicurist Sophy Robson was creating the cult nail trends backstage at Paris Fashion Week, and now the nails are done you can check out her awesome blog
As always I am absolutely blown away by her incredible attention to detail and her way she manages to encapsulate a designer’s vision on the smallest of surfaces – a nail! Here’s what the glossy syrup-y nail she created for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. Sophy Robson Nails for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton show
Sophy Robson Nails for Chanel - Paris Fashion Week Also she watched the Chanel show and had this exclusive peek at the new Chanel nail colour, apparently called Black Pearl. Mmmm, new Chanel nail colours….
PS -Thanks all for bearing with me whilst I had a much-needed holiday this week. I’m now back (with a slight tan, thank you very much!) and ready to get right back into the wonderful world of makeup.

Video: Lanvin Autumn/Winter 2010 Behind the Scenes

I loved this show – incredible clothes (what we have come to expect from Alber Elbaz), and I found the aesthetic to be really interesting. This season the Lanvin team were playing with the idea that everybody is starting to look the same, which I think we can all attest to – the incredible rise in plastic surgery creating a veritable army of clone-like female “beauty”. By giving the models the same hair and a robotic black eye, Elbaz eloquently makes the point that fashion should also be about diversity. It might be beautiful, but surely we don’t want everyone to look the same? Nice to see a really interesting ethos behind a show. Hats off to Elbaz, Guido on hair and the redoubtable Pat McGrath on makeup (who, quite frankly, does it again).

For those viewers at home who would like to take this look for a spin, I would recommend:

  • Bobbi Brown Black Ink Gel Eyeliner plus MAC Smolder pencil and MAC Carbon shadow to create the black structure to the eye
  • MAC Pro glitter in Gold and Reflects Antique Gold for golden shine on the lid
  • Benefit Hoola bronzer for contour under the cheekbones (no blush)
  • Estee Lauder Vanilla Truffle lipstick for an expensive beige mouth, and Estee Lauder Clear Gloss for shine



Beauty Runway Round-Up

With the Paris shows having recently finished, it’s time for the Fall ’09 runway Beauty rundown. 

If there was one strong theme that strode off the catwalks this season just finished, it was that Cool Rules. It’s just as much about what you don’t do, as what you emphasise. Case in point – again it was a season with very little blush, it was all about cheek contour at almost every show. Mascara was rarely used, and lashes were not really the focal point. 

What was happening was a strong, single element, but boy did that change! Orange lips, black lips, grey lips, berry lips (even green in one very directional London show, but that’s what London is for, right?) At Alexander McQueen red lips went ridiculously oversized so they looked like fake plastic lips (suspiciously similar to the oversized red lip Inge Grognard created for A.F Vandevorst last season). 

Smoky eyes came out to play in London, New York, Paris and Milan, but it was often paired with a glossy texture and almost always with an undone mouth (and you all know how to do that, right?  It’s concealer patted on with a finger. If you find conventional concealers too dry, try MAC Lip Erase). 

Dramatic 50’s flick eyeliner arrived in style at Dolce and Gabbana, Chanel and Valentino. At Lanvin and Dolce and Gabbana a wine red or cherry lip was patted on with a finger to work with the insouciance that has categorized this season of major economic uncertainty. It’s all about gleaming skin, and not trying too hard. 

A round up of the major looks: 

Tough Beauty – Lanvin, Michael Kors

 

Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Warrior women at their best. At Lanvin it was a cherry lip that gave the look its structure, and at Michael Kors Dick Page constructed a beautiful smoky eye. As Michael Kors said “When times get tough, New York women get tougher!”

 Gray lips – Doo.Ri, Tuleh

This is a tough one for regular women to wear and it’s the logical progression from the gray nail trend we’ve been having this season. It’s in the air and if it’s on your mind, MAC do an amazing lip pencil called Stone, or you can pat on their Black LipMix but be warned! Go easy on it. It’s a short step from directional to dead. 

Contour

This is major, major, major. I can’t remember the last time I used pretty blush on a show. It’s either contouring with bronzer (a matte one please), or a brown gray powder, like MAC’s Taupe. They also do a great range of powders called Sculpt and Shade for this purpose, and these were heavily used at the shows. (MAC are the biggest sponsors of the shows around the world, which is why you see their products everywhere at this time).

Scary 80’s

 

Sessilee Lopez, oh Lord, what happened??

Sessilee Lopez, oh Lord, what happened??

I have to talk about it, even though it pains me. Gucci, Alessandro del Acqua, Issa and (shudder, this show gave me the heebie jeebies), Marc Jacobs. I’m talking the full magilla – colored contour, winged eyeshadow to the temples, bright glossy lipsticks, strong brows, lots of base, the full 9 yards. 

When done properly this is a fierce, ruling look, but in the wrong hands (sorry Sessilee Lopez, I’m talking to you!)picture), it really is frighten-the-children, flat-out scary. And when the most beautiful women in the world look like aging drag queens, this is a look regular women want to avoid like the plague. A hint – if you are going to go there, keep the base minimal and fresh so the focus is on your major lips and eyes, and not on your Dynasty-like base. Krystal Carrington, beauty icon? Not so much. 

 

Gorgeous makeup at the Chloe show

Gorgeous makeup at the Chloe show

 

 

I do have to give an honorable mention to the Chloe show, where Charlotte Tilbury created glowing, bronzey early 80’s winged eyes. What’s particularly interesting about this show is it’s such a departure from their signature natural no-makeup look. So if they’re doing proper makeup at Chloe, chances are good you will be too in the coming months.  But ladies, let’s do it right!

Return of the 1990’s

I hear you all gasp! Not possible? Oh yes, it’s come around again. But this time it’s taking the good elements and leaving the unattractive bits behind. No chocolate lip liner in a big old  nasty ring around the mouth. None of those bad overdrawn lips, or dead person brown muddy lipstick. It’s about taking

Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson

1990’s elements – like lipliner and tawny tones – and adding modern textures and finishes.

Cases in point – Diane Kendal’s lovely makeup for Proenza Schouler. Brown cream eyeshadow all around the eye, a soft pink cream on cheeks (one of the few shows that did blush, and it was a welcome relief from all those razor sharp cheekbones), no mascara and lips patted down with concealer. The Matthew Williamson show had  a similar last decade ethos.

 And at the Graham Black show in London where Kay Montano did a shiny brown eye using Satin Taupe, and heralded the return of MAC Underworld lipstick which I believe was last gracing our lips right about when we were rocking out to Smells Like Teen Spirit. It’s Grunge, but not as we know it.