London Fashion Week – Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2011

London Fashion Week Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2011Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director Sam Bryant

Sponsored by MAC

 

The theme of this show was a dancer, just come out of dance class, fresh faced and innocent. Beautiful.

Skin

MAC Face & Body foundation for a very sheer base, and only if the model needed it. Super fresh skin.

Eyebrows

Brushed up using MAC Eyebrow Gel

Eye

A tiny line blended into the socket line of MAC Evil eye shadow, barely there, just enough to see as she blinks her eye.

Cheek

A flushed cheek, using a mixture of MAC Lilicent and So Sweet So Easy cream blushes to make it look like she’d been working out.

Lip

The natural colour of the lips was brought out by mixing either MAC Lip pencils in either Beet, Dervish or Spice, with a little Vaseline, and then blotted to take out any glossiness.

Simply Divine!

 

 

London Fashion Week – John Rocha show, Autumn Winter 2011

Celine Bopp doing makeup at the John Rocha show

 

Report by Celine Bopp | Makeup Director – Sam Bryant

Inspiration

This season the John Rocha girls were just on their way to Glastonbury to work on the circus, a bit grungy fresh, with a conceptual lip. Feral eyebrows.

Skin

Fresh skin was the look, using MAC Face and Body foundation a fraction paler than their skin tone, so that the skin felt real on the girls.

Becca Shimmering Skin Pefector was used for highlighting nose, chin, cheeks and a wash over the eyelid.

Cheek

A fleshy coloured cream colour (MAC Uncommon Blush Crème) was placed just at the low front part of the cheek, just a suggestion, not heavy.

Eyebrows

Real hair was finely chopped and added into the girls brows to make them big and ‘feral’!

Lip

MAC Vino Pencil  was used to create the strong v-shaped lip, top lip sharp with a softened lower lip, giving it a grungy but not too grungy feel.

MAC Silver pigment and MAC Mixing Medium was used to acccentuate the cupids bow.

Finally a light dusting of Ben Nye Translucent powder, not too heavy, just to take off the shine.

Abbey-Lee Kershaw

 

 

 

London Fashion Week – Betty Jackson show Autumn Winter 2011

London Fashion Week Betty JacksonMakeup Mole @LFW

Well not actually me in person if you haven’t guessed, but the Mole has her spies everywhere! This time around my superspy superstar backstage makeup artist is Celine Bopp, one of my oldest and dearest London makeup friends. Celine was first assistant to major makeup artist Sam Bryant for over three years, where she worked constantly with photographers like Tim Walker and celebs like Natalie Portman. She has also assisted Alex Box and Kay Montano on a regular basis for a number of years, and is a fabulous makeup artist in her own right, now working independently on jobs like Hugo Boss and McQ by Alexander McQueen.

For London Fashion Week this year she was on Sam Bryant and Alex Box’s team – here she shares with us the look at Betty Jackson (one of my favourite shows to work on. Great girls, great clothes and great makeup – what more could a girl ask?)

BETTY JACKSON
Makeup Director Sam Bryant
Sponsored by MAC

Inspiration
Think Patti Smith grunge, smokes a lot of fags and doesn’t pluck her eyebrows. Tobacco stained girls with a touch of Violet from the Incredibles. Amazing.

Foundation
Pale skin using MAC Studio Sculpt foundation

Brows
Thick elongated brows with MAC Eyebrow Pencils in Fling, Lingering, Stud and Spiked (an MM favourite!)

Eyes
Tobacco eye – Like a nicotine wash over the whole lid, slightly squared off at the brow, buffing in MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia

Cheeks
MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Malaysia was used as the lighter colour, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Sand Brown was used at the back of cheekbone to create the contoured intensity

Lips
Lip are nude by paling them down with MAC Lip Erase in Dim

Accents and Highlights
MAC Polished Ivory Paint Stick was used to create this, no shimmer!

Powder
Finished with a light dusting of Powder with either MAC Shimmering White or Translucent

www.maccosmetics.com

Beauty Breakdown – London Fashion Week

Stella McCartney for Adidas at the London Fashion WeekStella McCartney for Adidas - Makeup by Kay Montano

It’s been quite a hard LFW to be away from this year – all my peeps have been doing gorgeous work in London on Richard Nicholl, Margaret Howell and Betty Jackson (all my old regulars, sniff!)

But I was especially sad I couldn’t be there for the Stella McCartney for Adidas show as it’s my old dream team – Kay Montano on makeup, Sophy Robson on nails and the lovely Katie Service busting out makeup alongside Kay. (And it was in a gorgeous private home in London as well, rumour has it the home of one of the A-list!)

However even though I couldn’t be there in person, I DO have the breakdown of how to achieve a perfect sporty glow, even though the models turned up looking decidedly lackluster as it’s halfway through the international fashion calendar.

Skin – No extra moisturiser needed as the foundation gave a creamy glow

Base – Myface Mymix foundation, applied from the centre of the face outwards with a sponge

Concealer - Myface Mycover concealer in the matching shade for the models’ skintone, applied to any redness around the nose

Blush – Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Pink Truffle applied with the sponge to create the ’30 minutes of cardio’ look to their cheeks.

Lips – Lucas’ Paw Paw Ointment

www.myfacecosmetics.com

www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl show

Richard Nicholl ShowOur final report of the week comes from Richard Nicholl’s show – predictably another standout show from the Aussie designer.

The makeup from Sam Bryant’s team was either a wash or purple or a wash of orange on the eyes. These were created using a mixture of textures – creams, shimmer powders, and pigment mixed with MAC Mixing Medium.

The show was sponsored by MAC.

Purple and Orange Eyes

Base – MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, with MAC Pearl Cream Color Base as a highlight

Eyes – Purple

Apply a  color wash of purple crème all over eyelid, from lash line to browbone

Mix MAC Fuchsia pigment with MAC Makeup mixer and apply to outer corners for intensity

MAC Swish Frost eyeshadow

Eyes – Orange

MAC Dusty Coral Paint Stick washed all over eye

MAC Basic Red Paint Stick blended and washed into the Dusty Coral

Blush – Powder blush blended right into the temples and hairline (the product used was a Mineralize duo that’s not yet available)

Lips – Dab crème colors over lips with fingertip and blend

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – TopShop Unique show

Top Shop UniqueNiamh Kavanagh was on Miranda Joyce’s team yesterday, for TopShop Unique, where the inspiration for the show was none other than Pamela Anderson, who is rapidly gaining a living icon status.

Hair was by the ever- amazing hair wiz Paul Hanlon and featured totally disheveled ponytails gripped with neon-pink bows.

Sponsored by MAC

Neon Pink Pumped up Lips

Base – MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, really minimal, only where needed

Lips – MAC Magenta Madness pigment, with Pink Shock Cream Color Base

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Jenny Packham show

Jenny Packham showThe breakdowns continue! Niamh Kavanagh was on Charlotte Tilbury’s team yesterday afternoon for the Jenny Packham show, where the reference was grunge muse, Courtney Love.

This season MAC seem to have dialed down their ubiquitous presence at the shows, however even without sponsorship it seems no catwalk look is complete without a healthy dose of MAC. It leaves the playing field wide open for other companies – like NARS, Lancome and Illamasqua to sponsor shows, as the PR that follows is great for brand exposure.

Courtney Love Beautiful Grunge look – Charlotte Tilbury

Base – Very pale, using MyFace Fair foundation and MyFace Pressed Powder in Fair (which Niamh tells me is amazing!) all over face, down neck and onto arms for a Seattle moon-glow.

Eyes – Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil in Smoky Black along the upper lash line, with no blending, and no winging at the outer corners.

MyFace Black mascara on top lashes, and slightly on lower lashes

MAC Clear Gloss all over top lid, up to the browbone, with a bit of the Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Smoky Black liner mixed in with it, to create a shiny grey wash.

Lips – MAC Brick lip liner all over entire lip, then a mixture of MAC Ruby Woo lipstick and MAC Black Lipmix was dabbed on top of this to create a burgundy stain.

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – John Rocha Show

John Rocha Antique Dolls London Fashion WeekThe look for John Rocha was very antique dolls – Sam Bryant’s team on makeup, and Sam Hillerby on hair.

Base – MAC Face and Body in C1, to make the girls slightly paler than their natural color

Eyes – Illamasqua palette in Solstice over the entire lid up to the brow.

MAC Gold pigment dusted over lid and into the crease to really add definition, and also up into the brows, onto the temples and over the cheekbones.

Then to make the shape more Egyptian, MAC Mixing Medium was added to the Gold pigment and worked into the inner and outer eye corners to make a more unusual eye shape.

Cheeks – Ben Nye Orange and Pink cream blushes, mixed together applied in an upside down triangle shape to cheeks, then blended well

Lips – The same Ben Nye cheek colors were used on the lips.

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Eon Jeong Show

Eon JeongSo the madness begins! London Fashion Week has kicked off again and I can guarantee that right at this moment hundreds of hairdryers are being used, lips are getting stained in all sorts of colors and mascara is going on lovely curled lashes all over this fair city. I’ll be bringing you the beauty breakdowns as they happen – the clothes, the girls, but most importantly – what eyeliner are they wearing?

Our first backstage report comes courtesy of makeup artist Niamh Kavanagh who is quite the lady in demand this season. She has shows all over town on teams ranging from Sam Bryant’s to Charlotte Tilbury’s. Her first show was Eon Jeong, with key makeup artist, Polly Osmond.

Eon Jeong was held at Somerset House which is Fashion Base Camp this season, and the energy backstage was off the charts! Alain Pichon was rocking out crazy big hair which is already looking like becoming something of a trend this season, storming the runways of New York and now hopping the pond over to London.

The show was sponsored by Loreal Cosmetics. The makeup was icy white eyes with a very clean base.

Base – L’Oreal’s Studio Secrets foundation, all over to even skin tone

Eyes – Studio Secrets white eyeliner inside and around both upper and lower eyelids

Mascara – Using the white of the Double Extension Renewal mascara to add a ‘touch of white’ to the lashes, top and bottom

Lips – Finish off with Studio Secrets lip lacquer 410 by gently pressing in to the lip with tips of fingers