All posts by The Makeup Mole

Lan Yu Show - Sydney Fashion Week

From the Front Lines: Makeup Directing the Lan Yu show

Sorry about the lack of posts the last couple of weeks – it’s been super hectic at my end as I was preparing to direct the makeup for my first fashion show at Sydney Fashion Week and then I went straight into a Press junket for a UK actor at the weekend. It’s been a tad busy and put it this way – I never thought I’d be so excited to spend a day cleaning the house and doing washing!

The show was the first fashion show in Australia for China’s most esteemed couture designer, Lan Yu (her incredible gowns show up regularly on red carpets and A-list celebs around the world).

Sponsoring the show was EVOHE, the Australian 100% natural skincare company who have recently appointed me as their Creative Director. I love EVOHE products as they are one of the few brands that I find I can consistently use on my skin, and get results from with no irritation (more posts to follow when I get some more time to write about them!)

The collection was called ‘Starry Night’ and Lan Yu had designed 12 incredible gowns, each representing a different archetype of the Zodiac. The detail and finish of each gown was truly breathtaking, and the brief for the makeup was Universal goddesses. Each model was like a star in the sky, and just like the Universe is completely natural and unforced, so each girl needed to look like the most radiant natural version of herself. It was all about beautiful skin and a very modern, effortless look to contrast with the incredible complexity of the gowns.

In order to do that I gave the girls a facial before the show using EVOHE’s Silica Mask (which is amazing as it plumps the skin and doesn’t leave it irritated or red, so it’s a fantastic start to the makeup). Then I applied the EVOHE Mineral Powder foundation anywhere the girls needed it to give really beautiful, radiant looking skin.

Long-time readers know that I don’t normally like mineral powders but this one is designed to mix up with the EVOHE moisturisers into a liquid foundation. So that I can handle! I added some of the EVOHE Omega 3 6 9 oil just to the high points of the face and the rest of the makeup was beautiful groomed brows, a soft wash of brown around the eye, and the EVOHE Liquid Lips in Eve, Rosella and Celebration as a stain on the lips and cheeks.

Backstage was pretty frantic with lots of media to talk to about the look and a very hectic final few minutes before the show as the previous show had run late. One of the lovely models, Katie, had three hairdressers, a manicurist and me all over her getting her show ready on time. I suppose it wouldn’t be a show without a bit of frantic maquillage at the end! I used very little powder to keep the gorgeous natural shine on the skin and just let each girl’s beauty shine through.

I was also thrilled to be re-united on the show day with one of my all-time favourite hairdressers, Raymond Robinson who I used to shoot with in Sydney many years ago. He was directing the hair on behalf of Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair and he and the team did a gorgeous job of creating organic, unstructured ballerina buns. It was a beautiful show and I’m very much looking forward to seeing more of Lan Yu’s incredible designs in future.

en.lanyu.co
evohe.com.au

Lan Yu Show - Sydney Fashion Week

Kate-Upton-V-Magazine

From the Front Lines: Kate Upton Signed as the new Celebrity Face of Bobbi Brown

I was delighted to hear that lovely American model Kate Upton has been signed by Bobbi Brown as the new face of the brand (and I also have to confess that I’m more excited to see her new campaigns than more of Katie Holmes. I find her underwhelming I’m afraid). One of my favourite models for one of my favourite brands, yes please!

Kate has that real original 90’s supermodel vibe to her, reminiscent of Cindy and Claudia back in the day. She’s helped bring big boobs back into high-fashion, and being of the larger busted persuasion myself, I’m very grateful that she’s helping make big boobs look chic and glamorous, and not porn star.

Great call, Bobbi Brown. Kate Upton looks like the kind of girl who’d be a laugh to hang out with – and I’d definitely buy makeup from her.

Here’s how versatile Kate Upton is – her real self, with Bobbi Brown:

 And a BTS video from her first big Italian Vogue shoot by Steven Meisel, the classic femme fatale:

 Now THAT’S what I call a model.

www.bobbibrown.co.uk

Chanel Suprmarket

Video – Chanel Fall 2014 Backstage

Aah Karl – such a genius. Only he could create an entire Chanel SUPERMARKET (complete with aisles and aisles of divine double-C products) to showcase his latest Fall collection. This is a fabulous look at the show with an interview with Karl and commentary from the fash pack on how social media is changing the landscape of fashion shows. As always, Karl is ahead of the field and right on the money.

 

Emma Stone Revlon

In My Kit – Revlon ColorBurst Matte Balm and Lacquer Balm

OMG OMG OMG, yum yum yum. That’s what I have to say about Revlon’s two newest lip offerings, Color Burst Matte Balm and ColorBurst Lacquer Balm.

These are delicious jumbo lip crayons that are so quick and simple and come in a great range of colours, and you can so easily toss them in your handbag (like I have – I currently have about 4 of them in mine). Plus the Matte Balms in particular will be going in my kit as they provide a phenomenal base for a statement lip.

Let’s talk about the Matte Balms first. I have to confess that these are my favourite. They have great pigmentation yet feel very light on the lips, and they’re creamy and a cinch to apply. They have a wind-up bottom for when you need more of that good stuff, and they’re also fantastic just as stain. I would recommend putting a lip balm underneath as they are matte, so if you have dry lips you might find them a bit drying. I also love that they contain natural emollients such as Shea butter, Mango and Coconut butter, (much nicer than putting petroleum on your lips – isn’t that a gross thought?)

There are ten shades to choose from with lots of yummy brights which a) makes me happy and b) is perfect for my kit as I’ve been getting bored with some of my old bright lip colours lately. I have discovered that if you were that way inclined, you could even layer the Matte Balm with the Lacquer on top for a real full-finish lipstick. Be warned though, they do have a minty smell and taste. I prefer my lip products unscented and taste-free, but even I can handle it, and I’m quite picky on such things.  They’re so great they’re worth it. (Ooops, I think I stole someone’s slogan!)

I’m particularly enamoured of the Matte Balm in Mischevious which is a lovely coral colour, Standout which is a deep raisin-berry and (let me dig in my handbag for the ones I’m carting around) and Unapologetic which is a bright raspberry. The nude in Complex looks quite interesting as well, so that needs to go in my kit too. For deeper skin tones there’s an incredible grape colour called Shameless, which will also be fabulous for editorial shoots. I’m kind of obsessed with this one. In. It. Goes.

Then the ColorBurst Lacquer Balms are also gorgeous with more of a sheer glossy finish. The Lacquer Balms have some beautiful pink colours with the bright fuchsia tones of Vivacious and Flirtatious (these really made me think of Revlon’s spokesmodel Emma Stone who stars in the ad campaign), and Coquette, a sweet blue-based baby pink, which is one of the personal ones I have kicking around in my handbag.

Both the Matte and the Lacquer Balms have buildable colour so you can go quite sheer or build it up and layer it with other products (I’m a natural born layer-er-er – yes I know that’s not a word, but it should be!) so if you’re looking for me, I’ll be busy in my lip kit.

 www.revlon.com

Jessica Lange Marc Jacobs

From the Front Lines: Age Ain’t Nothing But a Number

This isn’t the post I was going to run today, but I was so pleased when I saw not one but TWO amazing actresses who are older than 25 get major cosmetics contracts last week, I thought a post was in order.

I am all about inclusive beauty. Beauty should be age-less, gender-less, race-less and open to everyone, regardless of your body shape, height, or sexual preference. For a long time there has been a major focus on beauty being the province of the young and finally it feels like the pendulum is swinging the other way, to recognize the beauty in wisdom and older women. It’s wonderful to see major brands recognizing that we as consumers can relate to older models, and how powerful for women in general (and particularly young women and girls) to see that as you age you don’t need to be consigned to the beauty scrapheap.

Charlotte Rampling (I’ll say that again CHARLOTTE RAMPLING!!! Who has to be one of the coolest actresses ever. Hello Night Porter, Georgy Girl, Stardust Memories, plus those incredible photos she took with Helmut Newton, where do I start?) has been signed to NARS as their new face and will be photographed by Francois Nars later this year for the 20th anniversary campaign. She was voted by Vogue as the World’s Sexiest Woman in 1974, and in 2014 she’s still going strong.

(At this point I have to interject and tell you that one of my main claims to fame is that I sold Charlotte Rampling a pair of clapsticks. My first job as a teenager was working in Sydney at an Aboriginal Art Gallery and she bought some clapsticks, an Aboriginal musical instrument, from me one day. There. It’s not every day you sell Charlotte Rampling a pair of clapsticks – I’m pretty sure I’m the only person on the planet who can lay claim to that).

 And now Jessica Lange, also one of my favourite actresses, has been signed by Marc Jacobs Beauty as their new face for their upcoming campaign. You can’t really argue with her icon status either – discovered by famed illustrator Antonio Lopez, roommates with Jerry Hall and Grace Jones in the 70’s before going on as an actress to garner not one but TWO Oscars, two Emmy’s and five Golden Globes. All That Jazz, the Postman Always Rings Twice, Tootsie and Raging Bull are just some of the films she’s starred in.

In other inclusive beauty news, just last month Sheryl Sandberg (yes, the Facebook Sheryl Sandberg), has struck a deal with Getty Images to provide alternative and more realistic images of women. No more of those stupid women smiling whilst eating salad pictures! Or at least a whole lot less. I don’t know about you but I’d rather see women doing interesting things like actually exercising, or creating things or, you know, WORKING, rather than looking thrilled to be on a diet. Surely the suffragettes fought for us so we could do more than diet and aspire to look like Kim Kardashian.

If you like the idea of inclusive beauty in fashion, also check out the wonderful English initiative, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. Started by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne and English model Erin O’ Connor, it is an initiative working with the global fashion industry to expand upon the imagery it is creating to mirror a more realistic range of women in age, size, race and appearance than currently on offer. http://www.allwalks.org

It’s time the beauty and photography industries started to realize that beauty (and women) comes in all sorts of shapes, colours, sizes and ages. At last it feels like they’re listening!

Illamasqua Glamore

Video: Illamasqua’s New Campaign Glamore – BTS with Alex Box

Loving the look of the new Illamasqua campaign, and the saturated colours in the new collection! That new glittery Shattered Star nail polish looks right up my alley as well.

It’s a very feminine, quite girly campaign for Illamasqua and it’s nice to see them going in a softer direction for a change. Plus the lipsticks will still have their insane pigmentation that they’re renowned for, so I can see more additions to my lipstick kit in the future.

 

Jordan Dunn

Right Now: Electric Blue

Of late I’ve been cruising on YouTube for obscure 80’s hits – one hit wonders and bad Australian songs have been featuring prominently. So today when I came across a CLASSIC Australian pop song (prompted by hearing a delivery man playing it in his truck yesterday – you know it’s fabulous music when that’s where you hear it!) the epic “Electric Blue” by Icehouse, I just knew I had to introduce it to all my MM readers. Or re-introduce it for those lucky enough to remember it first time around (c 1987).

Obviously the first thing you notice about the video is the lead singer’s hair, or mullet. I can tell you right now from all the YouTube-ing I’ve been doing that mullets were a key part of 80’s Aussie music. Uncanny X Men, Wa Wa Nee, Pseudo Echo – all the (supposedly) hot boys at the time had a delicious, bouffant and flowing back section and preferably a neat groomed (and highlighted, if you really wanted to impress the ladies) fore section. Forget business at the front, party at the back – it was party at the front, a nightclub at the back and a full on  rave all over.  Looking at the men in these videos it’s a wonder Aussies managed to reproduce at all and all the women didn’t run away screaming overseas. ANYWAY…

I digress. The reason I’m introducing you to this classic piece of vintage Australiana is the return of 80’s blue shadow and liner, except it’s being worn with a 90’s grunge sensibility. Since the whole natural grunge makeup seam has been pretty much mined to exhaustion over the last few seasons, during this season’s shows makeup artists are bringing back flashes of block colour and liner that were also a mainstay of 90’s makeup.

Pat McGrath put a sky blue on a few of the girls at Prada this week in Milan and Lucia Pieroni did a gorgeous electric blue liner at Giles in London. Which harked back to the 80’s. So it’s a post-modern, modern look if you will, that looks totally fresh. Here’s my picks for the best blue liners and shadows to give you a bit of colour-blocked 80’s/90’s/now goodness. Mullet optional, but not recommended.

 Best Blue Eyeliners

  • NARS Kitty pencil – a gorgeous electric blue
  • MAC Hi-Def Cyan Chromagraphic Pencil – used on the Giles show by Lucia Pieroni last week, this is pretty much the perfect blue
  • Bourjois  Regard Paillete in Bleu Etincelant – Sparkling eyeliner basically, but it sounds so much nicer in French! This is a gorgeous metallic bright blue liner. New to my kit this week. I love this and can’t wait to give it a workout.
  • Essence 2 in 1 Kajal pencil in Destination Sunshine -  the colour is a slightly off electric blue. It’s a bit of a weird colour which is why I like it. Essence are a German brand and Europe’s biggest selling range apparently, but new to me. At a bargain price point, I have to say I’m impressed with the colour pay off.
  • Barry M SuperSoft Eye Crayon in Matte Blue - Barry M. Always. Another bargain too.
  • Illamasqua Eye Pencil in Debonair – delicious bright blue with great pigmentation
  • TopShop Makeup  – If liquid liner is more your thing, TopShop do a deep blue liner called Yonder which looks quite delish.

Best Blue Shadows

  • NARS Outremer – amazing cobalt blue. Incredible
  • Illamasqua Victim  - is a full-pigment intense azure blue, and one of my favourites
  • Illamasqua Sadist – matte cobalt (cause you can never have too much colour blocked cobalt)
  • MAC Electric Eel - a total classic
  • MAC Freshwater  - if you don’t want your electric blue without a bit of sheen. I’ve had it in my kit forever, but right now I’m channeling a matte finish.
  • MAC Deep Truth  - a beautiful dark navy. Because sometimes you need to take the electric down a level, to well, normal.

 

PS: What’s with the clothes in 80’s videos?  Sweatshirts, singlets, a jumper that their nan knitted them – really it’s like most of them rolled out of bed that day and just pulled on whatever was in their washing pile. In the dark. The 80’s, truly the decade that style forgot.

Cara Delvingne

New Beauty Breakdown! Burberry Prorsum A/W 2014

So the Burberry woman doesn’t vary that much from season to season – she’s always polished, English, and quintessentially cool with the expert hands of makeup artist Wendy Rowe and fabulous hairdresser Neil Moodie tweaking her look, but always sticking with the brand DNA.

This season I particularly liked though, as it’s inspired by the Bloomsbury literary and artistic movement of last century, and this is the type of eye I think is perfect for the cooler months. It’s a gorgeous mix of aubergine and taupey-mauve that works not only for the likes of Burberry girls like Edie Campbell, Cara Delevingne and Suki Waterhouse, but also makes the eye colour of mere mortals pop. The sheer coverage foundation and light enhancing luminsers makes even average civilian skins look good. Here’s the Burberry Beauty products Wendy Rowe used:

Face

  • Fresh Glow in Nude Radiance and Golden Radiance
  • Sheer concealer
  • Sheer Powder

Blush

  • Light Glow Blush in Earthy no 7

Eyes

  • Complete Eye Palette in Nude Blush
  • Effortless Kohl in Stone 03
  • Effortless Mascara in Midnight Black

Lips

  • Lip Cover in Tulip Pink No 27

www.burberry.com