All posts by The Makeup Mole

Gigi Hadid, Pirelli Calendar

Video: The Making of the Pirelli Calendar, 2015

Shot by Steven Meisel | Makeup by Pat McGrath

Since its inception in 1964, the Pirelli calendar has been the gold standard of pinup calendars. No longer the province of ropey topless chicks straddling a motorcycle in dusty garages, it’s shot by one of the world’s best photographer every year, and uses the most beautiful models in the world. The final calendar is sent to a tiny handful of Pirelli’s best customers and VIP clients. It has always been kept under wraps and been the province of a very small, very select group of people.

But now, with the advent of the internet, it’s not so secretive anymore. Here is a 30 minute documentary on the making of this year’s Pirelli calendar, shot by arguably the most influential fashion photographer of our time, Steven Meisel. And the makeup in the calendar (‘cause let’s face it, this is MakeupMole, which is ALL ABOUT THE MAKEUP, even when there’s naked supermodels involved) is Pat McGrath’s usual perfection. If you ever wanted to see Joan Smalls as a latex boxer Belle de Jour fantasy fetish girl, now is your chance!

Daria Werbowy

In My Kit: Maybelline Baby Lips in Pink Glow

I think by now you might have figured out that I am not a drugstore gal. Of course there’s always some stuff there that’s worth checking out (like mascaras, and lipsticks, and the odd nail polish). Although there are loads of good drugstore products – with the economic heft of global cosmetic giants like Procter & Gamble and L’Oreal they’re always going to be on top of the new technology,
so lots of their stuff is great now. And if you let me loose in a French pharmacy, well that’s a different thing entirely. I’m practically in there with a bulldozer, ripping up Crealine and Embryolisse and Honeoplasmine, not to mention Evian and Avene Water and La Roche Posay everything. (Get your hard hats on boys, she’s coming in!)

But drugstores in Australia, not so much. Do you want to know why?
Because Australian drugstores have missed the memo on why people shop there, and that reason is price. It’s supposed to be cheap fellas. Mascaras in Australian pharmacies cost $27 (L’Oreal), Revlon eyeshadow quads are $25, Max Factor lipgloss is $20. I know all my US readers are passing out right about now – products cost about 4-5 times more in Australia than in America. For the exact same thing. So you know what? I often figure I’d rather spend the extra amount and get a premium product for a bit more (OK quite a bit more – Chanel quads are about $100. But it’s like, you know, Chanel. HELLO.)

So the other day when I checked out Maybelline Baby Lips Lip Glow, needing a new lip balm with SPF for my poor model who was going to fry the following day at the beach on a 31 degree day beach shoot, I was very pleasantly surprised. The price was right ($3.60 – jeez, I can’t even get a coffee for that these days in Sydney), and the product was a surprisingly good dupe for Dior’s Lip Glow, which is currently on my wish list as it’s just a gorgeous rose hued lip balm. And I think we all know YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY OF THOSE.

So in my kit it went and it kept my lovely model’s lips moisturized and sun protected and with just the perfect amount of twinkly sheen, all day long. So the next time you want a coffee, get a Baby Lips lip balm instead. It will last a whole lot longer than that caffeine.

www.maybelline.com

maybelline baby lips lip balm

Suki Waterhouse for Burberry Eyes

Video – Suki Waterhouse for Burberry Eyes

Just when you thought you couldn’t POSSIBLY need another black eyeliner product in your handbag, along comes Burberry’s new eyeliner pens to change your mind. Burberry have to have one of the best marketing strategies I’ve ever seen – their ads and campaigns are always beautiful, always on brand and feature gorgeous English models, like this one with Suki Waterhouse who is the perfect modern 60’s muse.

Gucci Beauty

Video: Gucci Beauty

Just when you thought there couldn’t POSSIBLY be anymore room in the world for another beauty brand, along comes the new Gucci Beauty range. And I have to say, it’s got me intrigued.

Part of the Procter and Gamble stable, it is thus under the aegis of mega makeup artist Pat McGrath who is the Creative Director (and also helped create the Dolce and Gabbana range, which is another P&G brand). And you know if it’s got Pat McGrath’s input, it’s probably gonna be pretty damn good.

This is the beautiful new Gucci campaign video starring Charlotte Casiraghi (of Monaco, don’t you know – and Grace Kelly’s grand-daughter. Apart from being supermodel gorgeous, she’s a champion horse rider. And a royal. AS YOU DO).

Gucci get extra points for using my favourite Sia track of all time ‘Breathe Me’ in their first ad. And I for one can’t wait to get my sticky paws on that red lipstick. High-octane glamour – what else would you expect from Gucci?

tom-ford-cosmetics-ad-campaign-gigi-hadid-01

The Foundation Files: Tom Ford Traceless Foundation Stick

You know, I actually should call this post ‘The Concealer Files’ since it’s about a foundation stick, but I’m crazy about it as a concealer. Some things I recommend to you guys because it’s in my kit, and some I recommend that seem to have taken up permanent residence in my personal makeup bag, and this product is one of those.

Again, it’s Tom Ford (I know, I know with Tom Ford – you guys are going to start thinking I have shares in the company, but I don’t. I just really, REALLY love everything in his line that I’ve tried. I have yet to find a dud product in this range.)

This is a beautiful, thick creamy foundation which I love for concealing as it has the perfect texture as it melts into the skin, even in the delicate under eye area. I still love the Bobbi Brown foundation stick (that’s been a kit staple of mine for years), but it can be a bit dry to use as a spot concealer and I prefer Bobbi’s undereye concealers for covering those dark circles that let’s face it, we all have to one degree or another (models, super or otherwise, included).

The Tom Ford Traceless Stick is also brilliant for concealing around the nose which often gets quite red, especially in winter when the skin can get chapped and raw. Because it has more of a greasy texture, it just glides on and stays on the red bits that you want it to, without looking like a big ole’ patchy, cakey mess.

I have tried the Tom Ford foundation as a foundation on the whole face and to be honest I didn’t love it on me, as it felt a bit heavy when applied with a brush. However more testing in the lab might be in order as it could be perfection when applied wet with a damp sponge.

I like to just grab a nice concealer brush and whack it on where needed – two seconds later and you’re ready to roll. So quick and easy. Tom Ford has just come out with a whole new range called the Flawless Complexion collection which I’ll be very curious to try. Foundations are a notoriously tricky part of a makeup range to get right, so if they can nail the foundations there’s a pretty good chance the rest of the range will be incroyable as well.

 www.tomford.com

Anna Sui Show Pat McGrath makeiup

Video: BTS at Anna Sui’s S/S 15 show with Pat McGrath

The shows are in full-swing at present, and so far it’s been a great season, both makeup and fashion-wise. New York has done nude and amped up natural in a zillion different ways but still managed to keep it interesting, and London has provided the colour and excitement as always. Nu-rave girls, neo-punk, and some blown out gothic glamour have all strutted down the catwalks, and this week it’s onto Milan.

One of my favourite makeup artists Pat McGrath has already done quite a few shows and as always has provided some beautiful looks. Here’s a BTS video of the amazing rock-star glitter eyes at Anna Sui in New York last week. So simple, so clean and yet so beautiful. This is runway makeup at its best.

Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss

Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne for Burberry’s new perfume, My Burberry (Shot by Mario Testino)

It couldn’t really be more Burberry if it tried – Kate and Cara sitting on a giant perfume bottle, in classic Burberry trench coats. Despite not being able to appreciate the perfume one iota (due to scrambled olfactory senses after the birth of my son – my sense of smell has never gone back to normal, such a bummer), I can still appreciate two British supermodels being gorgeous as it rains perfume. Sigh. If only life were like that.

In fact stuff the supermodels and the perfumed rain, I’d settle for one of those Burberry trench coats.

Lashing out - Vogue China

Secret Weapon: Max Factor 2000 Calorie Mascara

This has gone from being a really great mascara to a Secret Weapon in one fell swoop. Last week I was shooting a beauty story and for the second look we went for a clumpy lash, which is always a winner. So I reached for my now trusty companion, Max Factor 2000 Calorie mascara, and started to pile it on. Coat after coat after coat – it definitely added bulk, and the lashes were looking nice and big, but it was pretty much a clump-free zone. Incredible when it was only after about five coats on each eye that it started to really get cloggy. I had to go in with my CoverGirl Lash Blast to get the lashes nice and really mascara-saturated for that spiky 70’s feel. What that means for ordinary people who DON’T want to look like Liza Minelli on a daily basis, is that it’s pretty much lash perfection in a tube.

I started to use it on the recommendation from another makeup artist friend of mine, the fabulous Nicola Burford (who has done Cate Blanchett’s makeup as well as worked on Charlotte Tilbury and Tom Pecheux’s team at London Fashion Week, so she knows her stuff.) We met many years ago assisting Aussie makeup artist Kellie Stratton on an 80’s nightclub shoot. It was a bit of a baptism by fire for me as it was the first shoot I had ever done makeup on, and it was a riot of pseudo Adam Ants, 80’s Pierrots, black geisha brows, fuchsia contour and lacquer red mouths (and sometimes all at the same time). Let’s just say we got through a lot of white pancake makeup that day.

So when I was in the market for a new mascara, I asked Nicola and she said she swears by Max Factor 2000 Calorie – an oldie but a goodie. You can always rely on it – it doesn’t clump (until you seriously lay it on with a trowel – I can attest to that now) or smear or flake and just gives you lovely lashes quickly. You can dial it down for natural or up for a sexy lash so it’s a great one to have in your kit.

A quick note though – I didn’t love the waterproof version. The formula is a bit grabby and crunchy, and it just doesn’t go on smoothly like other waterproof classics like L’Oreal Voluminous or Full n’ Soft.

Lashing out - Vogue China Lashing out - Vogue China

The gorgeous pictures above are by photographer Nicholas Moore for Chinese Vogue, on a day I was assisting Kay Montano in London a few years ago. That was such a fun day – piles of fake lashes and the fabulous Neil Moodie on hair who (as usual) had me in stitches laughing. Neil also has a fabulous blog that you should check out http://www.neilmoodie.com/category/blog/ – it’s got hair! It’s got dogs wearing wigs! It’s got French and Saunders! It’s my kind of website!

 

* NB I checked that Nicola didn’t mind me putting her beauty secrets on the internet first. Mine I’m happy to throw out there on a regular basis, but other peoples are their own to keep unless they say I can do the big reveal.