In My Makeup Kit: False Lashes

false lashesLately I’ve been getting into lashes. Not a single shoot I’ve been on recently has been lash–free. Whether it’s Ellen Von Unwerth show girl lashes (courtesy of Shu Uemura), or flirty demi-lashes to elongate a smoky eye (thank you Ardell), I’ve been pulling out my lash bag time and time again. And it made me start thinking – I’ve never posted about lashes before. Time to start!

I have a few brands I like to look at when I buy false lashes, and Lord knows I seem to do that on a regular basis. You never know when you might need some Swarowski trimmed lashes, some Viktor and Rolf bottle-green marabou numbers or my latest acquisition, neon green handpainted and woven ones from the latest, incredible Shu Uemura collection called Ethnacolor Scope. You’d be amazed how often the opportunity presents itself!

Over the years I have been collecting lashes from all over the world and thankfully they’re now a lot easier to find than they used to be. Before you’d have to go to theatrical shops like Screenface or Charles Fox in London, Paris Berlin in Paris or ACMUSE in Sydney to find interesting lashes. Don’t get me wrong! These theatrical shops still are a veritable treasure trove for false lash fiends and should not be neglected in the quest for the perfect lash. But now you can also get great lashes at your local drugstore or chemist, and at every price point which is important when you’re experimenting.

Shu Uemura have a fabulous service called the Tokyo Lash Bar where you can choose a set of lashes and they will fit them for you, and explain how to do it which is a wonderful way to get started.

Choosing a pair of lashes can be daunting at first as they all look the same, but different – and understanding how they will make your eyes look at first can seem an impossible task. This is why I recommend trying a few cheaper options from the chemist until you find a style that you like. Generally the thicker and denser the lash, the more “fake” it will look. Wispy, feathery lashes tend to look more like a lush set of real lashes, so it depends what your makeup style is. Strip or half lashes are great for a night out, and for undetectable day time lush lashes, cluster lashes are my favourite (I like Ardell and MAC cluster lashes). As always, Pixiwoos and Lisa Eldridge on YouTube are a good place to look on the web if you’re curious to see a few pairs in actions first. Pixiwoos in particular use lashes A LOT.

A good eyelash glue is a must – my favourite (which I’ve posted about before) is Duo Lash Adhesive, available from theatrical shops or MAC. Another good option for those who are allergic to latex is Illamasqua’s non-latex glue, which has a free mini-bottle of glue with every pair of lashes.

Brands to try:

DrugstoreArdell are the world leaders in lashes. Pamela Anderson has been wearing them (since birth probably), and if anyone knows a good fake lash it’s Pammy Anderson! Speaking to her makeup artist awhile ago she told me Pam doesn’t go anywhere without at least two full sets – that’s a lot of lash action.

High-End – Lots to choose from. MAC do a lovely selection of false lashes, and I have yet to meet one of their lashes that I don’t like. Illamasqua also do beautiful lashes and some very interesting, dramatic styles you can’t find anywhere else. Their Creative Director Alex Box is a Lash Queen, and many’s the time I’ve helped her create a bespoke lash out of her special bag of tricks!

Shu Uemura make the most phenomenal and spectacular fantasy lashes with a special collection every year. This year I love their Tutu Laceflare lashes, but they also do beautiful more basic lashes as well. They aren’t cheap but with lashes this gorgeous who needs new clothes? In fact if your lashes look amazeballs, you don’t need any other adornment at all. Just a wink and a smile.

 

Right Now: Sophy Robson Nail Art now at SEPHORA

London Nail Queen, Sophy Robson, has been a busy gal of late – not only has she opened a new uber cool nail salon on the King’s Road in Chelsea, but she has also collaborated with OPI and Sephora to create exclusive nail art looks. Each nail art look comes with it’s own tutorial, and if you want to see a true nail artist in action, check this out!

As well as her Sephora collaboration Sophy has recently shot the new Marc Jacobs campaign with Juergen Teller (Helena Bonham Carter at her madcap best), worked with Terry Richardson and done Kate Moss’ nails for her wedding. How she fits it all in I don’t know!

You can follow all of Sophy’s high-fashion nail-jinks on her awesome blog at www.sophyrobson.com

Beauty Breakdown – Claudia Schiffer for the cover of German Vogue

Claudia Schiffer Vogue CoverMakeup by Kay Montano - Photographer: Miles Aldridge

Claudia Schiffer is back in a big way and sometimes it feels like it’s 1995 all over again! I’m having a moment with the supermodels right now (more on that later) and I am loving seeing those gorgeous glamazons back on billboards, red carpets and magazine covers.

Today we have a very special treat as lovely London-based makeup artist Kay Montano has kindly given me a breakdown of this month’s German Vogue cover that she recently shot with Claudia Schiffer and Miles Aldridge. Complete with this season’s must-have accessory (if the latest Chanel Haute Couture show is anything to go by) a lace net on the eyes, Claudia has the most body-slammin’ red lip I’ve seen in ages. This is courtesy of the immaculate new Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet lipstick coming out later this year (and which already has me salivating).

Here’s what Kay used to get Claudia cover-ready:

Skincare

  • Jurlique Soothing Day Care Lotion

Foundation

  • MyFace MyMix foundation in F2

 Concealer

  • MyFace MyCover concealer in F2

Powder

  • Jurlique Rose powder

Blush

  • MyFace blush in Holiday

Eyes

  • Chanel Prelude quad (new for Autumn/Winter)
  • Chanel Sublime de Chanel mascara in Noir

Lips

  • Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous lipcolour in La Fascinante (available in the UK on the 30th September 2011).

New Collection: Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 – Illusions d’Ombres de Chanel

Illusions d’Ombres de Chanel

Illusions d’Ombres de Chanel

Where do I even start with the new Autumn/Winter collection? Well should I start with the fact that every major makeup artist that I’ve spoken to in the last month on Twitter or email is in raptures? Kay Montano, Romy Soleimani, Florrie White, Benjamin Puckey – from London to New York they’re all raving about it, using it on shoots and on the red carpet. I’ve been using it on shoots and I’m in love with the colours and the textures.

Let me break it down for you – it’s the best Chanel collection yet. They have these new crème eyehsdaows called Illusion d’Ombre that are like metallic whipped mousses, and it’s a texture I’ve never used before. On the eye they look like foil, giving the most gorgeous metallic sheen. I had (serendipitously) a metallic beauty shoot recently and these gorgeous shadows just came into their own. The colour selection is beautiful as well:

Fantasme – silvery white loveliness
Emerveille – the ultimate peachy shimmer
Illusoire – taupe-plum perfection
Epatant – divine khaki silver (and what Peter Phillips used on the last Ready to Wear Chanel show).
Mirifique – perfect midnight blue black
Ebloui – deep burgundy gorgeousness

Mirifique was used in last week’s Chanel couture show to create the most amazing shiny, mysterious smoky eye (haute couture black lace burglar’s net optional).

The nailpolishes are incredible as well as they are extraordinary metallic duochromes, my favourite of which is Peridot. I used this on the same metallic beauty shoot and it’s like an Egyptian scarab, all gold and green, depending on where the light hits it. These are true stand-out nails! They are easy to apply (although I do like two coats), and I also loved the Quartz shade (not dissimilar to Bacterium from Illamasqua’s Art of Darkness collection). The inky silvery shade Graphite I’m saving for a special evening out next week.

There is a gorgeous new neutrals eyeshadow quad called Prelude, which is difficult to describe in that it’s plum matte black but not TOO purple, and two taupes that are almost khaki-toned, along with a buttery cream colour. It is completely different to all the other Chanel quads I own, so even though it’s perfect for a smoky eye, it’s not the same old greys and deep browns, which is refreshing.

The newest addition to their stable of eyeliners is Khaki Platine, which (as its name suggests), is a pale, shimmering khaki green, and which I know makeup artist Florrie White in London has recently used on Rosie Huntngton-Whiteley for the red carpet.

And last, but by no means least, is the new Rouge Coco lipstick in Etole, which is a beautiful lip shade – the exact colour of your lips (if your lips were perfect, which my lips sadly aren’t). Which is why it’s currently living in my handbag. Makeup artist Mary Greenwell used it on Uma Thurman at Cannes recently. There’s also a new rose blusher called Rose Ecrin which I haven’t tried yet – but given my track record with their blushes, as in the word ADDICTED springs to mind, I know I’ll be checking it out soon.

Just when I think Chanel have reached the apotheosis of makeup heaven there is a new collection, and Peter Phillips has dialed it up a notch again. The Autumn/Winter collection is about as close to makeup nirvana as it’s possible to get.

The Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 Illusions d’Ombres de Chanel will be on-counter in Australia from the 31st of July.

www.chanel.com

Video: The Making of Miss Dior Cherie

Feast your eyes on the incomparable Natalie Portman as she stars in the new ad campaign for Miss Dior Cherie, shot by English photographer, the wonderful and whimsical Tim Walker. I had the privilege of working with Tim Walker a number of times in London as I assisted his main makeup artist Sam Bryant for shows and big campaigns. The most memorable occasion was shooting in a field of roses with a giant skeleton hanging from a crane for US Harper’s Bazaar! Oh who am I kidding – it’s always memorable shooting with Tim Walker. This ad campaign is gorgeous, and Natalie looks luminous as always. Music by Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin – how can you go wrong?

 

 

Hot Polish – Illamasqua Gamma

Illamasqua GammaThis is, quite literally, a hot polish. It’s a fluoro orange colour that’s so bright that it hurts your eyes, and it’s exactly what I need at the moment. I’m in desperate need of a holiday and I’ve been quitting caffeine, so when you’re tired and the only vices you have left, are well, nailpolish and other assorted beauty items, you want them to be retina searingly fun. And Gamma is that. It’s the type of polish that looks like Gidget in Hawaii on acid, and I for one am currently in need of both (well, Gidget in Hawaii yes– less so the acid part.)

Roll on les vacances!

www.illamasqua.com

 

 

Beauty Breakdown: Exclusive! Gwyneth Paltrow for Vanity Fair

 

Gwyneth Paltrow Vanity Fair CoverMakeup by Kay Montano

I nearly passed out when I saw this incredible pic of Gwyneth Paltrow for Vanity Fair’s  jewellery calendar, out this week. Gwyneth has always been a very patrician beauty, but here she looks smouldering and just damn sexy in nothing but a pair of tights and some – yes, you guessed it, gorgeous jewellery. Kay Montano was the makeup artist responsible for Gwyneth’s walk on the bombshell side, and in a Makeup Mole exclusive, here’s what she used:

Skincare

  • Liz Earle Superskin moisturiser

Foundation

  • MyFace MyMix foundation in F2

Concealer

  • Clinique Airbrush
  • Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage in SC-3

Powder

  • Jurlique Rose Powder on T-zone

Blush

  • Chanel Rose Temptation blush

Eyes

  • MyFace Black Eyeliner
  • Chanel Eyeshadow Quad in Prelude (from the upcoming Autumn collection)
  • Chanel Inimitable mascara in Noir
  • Bobbi Brown Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink

Lips

  • Bobbi Brown Blush lipliner
  • Jurlique Love Balm mixed with MyFace Vintage Pink lipstick

 

The Interview: Makeup Artist Florrie White

Florrie White MakeupI had heard of London makeup artist Florrie White quite some time before I got the chance to assist her in London, as I knew her work from being a credits stalker on magazines like Vogue and Pop and Numero. Florrie started her makeup career as the English uber makeup artist, Charlotte Tilbury’s first assistant, and her career has only gone from strength to strength from there.

Currently working with celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane Krueger and Amanda Seyfried, she is also turning into something of the London It Girls makeup artist, looking after Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung on a regular basis. Her editorial work has appeared in Vogue (UK/US/Russian/Chinese), I-D, Pop, Love and Harper’s Bazaar, amongst others.

I had the opportunity to assist Florrie quite a few times whilst I was in London, and whether it was on a show or a shoot, she had such a lovely way about her. I discovered that not only is she a cracking makeup artist, she’s also one of the nicest people you’ll ever meet. Relaxed and calm under pressure, she trusts you to do your work and just get on with it. (She also has awesome taste in shoes, but that’s another story).

Without further ado, here is her Interview:

1. What are you working on at the moment?

I have just returned from Paris after heading the Yohji Yamamoto menswear show. It was my 3rd season and I adore being involved with such a creative and true designer. I went straight into a shoot for Giles Deacon Resort styled by Katie Grand and shot by Angelo Pennetta. I have a fashion show sponsored by L’Oreal for Marie Claire tomorrow and then I am really looking forward to working again with Britain’s new fashion muse and one of the most beautiful, funny and generous people I have ever met, Alexa Chung. We are shooting the cover for UK’s Harpers Bazaar with Ellen von Unwerth. This all is keeping me out of trouble – nearly!

2. Favourite makeup job ever?

Very difficult to say but UK Vogue story shot in Alaska with Jessica Stam in which we left her on a glacier and flew around her on a helicopter taking shots is a very high contender.

3. Top 5 products?

Givenchy Acti-Mine Wake-up Skin Make up base in Mango, Elizabeth Arden Powder pencil in Espresso, Bobbi Brown Long Wear gel eyeliner, Lancome Hypnose Mascara and Chanel Rouge Coco Shine lipsticks – all of them!

4. Best makeup tip ever?

Always use a freshly sharpened eye pencil for heightened precision. I don’t see the point of carrying around an eye pencil with out a pencil sharpener.

5. How did you get started in the business?

I did a course at Glauca Rossi School of make-up in London and then became first assistant to Charlotte Tilbury after being her PA for 6 months. I was very lucky to be taken on by my agent Emma Bryant only after a few months after I finished assisting. I am still represented by Emma at D+V Management.

6. How is it different to when you started?

I think I was lucky to get started just before the industry became flooded with new hopefuls. I think that now it may be more difficult to make the transition from being an assistant to being an established make up artist in your own right.

7. Favourite looks for the next coming season?

I love glamour, I adore products, I admire beautiful women. Pat McGrath’s make up at Louis Vuitton epitomises this aesthetic.

8. What do you love doing in your spare time?

Food is my other passion. I am waiting for the thunderstorm to pass in London right now so I can get on my bike and head into Soho to try out the new diner style bar called Spuntino.

Florrie’s full portfolio can be viewed online at www.dandvmanagement.com

Florrie White Makeup

Florrie White Makeup