(Not So) Secret Weapon – Shu Uemura Eyelash Curlers

Posted on May 31, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

I almost feel stupid for writing this as a Secret Weapon, and I’ve had it on my list to write about ever since I started blogging really. How can something so blindingly obvious be a Secret Weapon?

Then I realized about 70% of my private clients had either never used an eyelash curler, or hadn’t done so for years, and I thought what’s obvious to a makeup artist is not always so obvious to everyone else. (Although if I had 50 cents for every time a makeup artist called it their Number 1 beautifying tip, I’d have, well, more money than I do now. But sometimes the reason things are cliché is because they are true!)

Eyelash curlers make your lashes, and by extension, your eyes, look awesome. They open the eye and make them look bigger since you don’t have all that droopy eye fringe hanging in the way. They make your lashes look longer and give them a beautiful, flirty shape, ready to be mascara-ed. If you look tired they wake you up, and if you’re on the older side of the equation – well let’s face it we can use all the help we can get, and anything that lifts your features has to be a good thing, doesn’t it?

There are lots of eyelash curlers on the market, but I just can’t go past Shu Uemura’s. I have used it for my whole career, and I carry back-ups since they always seem to go “missing” (aka STOLEN by some light-fingered, stick-lashed nasty person). The Shu curlers are the best as they are designed for Asian eyes, so they can get into the smallest corners of the lashes. They are the perfect shape, never tugging or pulling, and as Asian lashes tend to be quite straight they deliver serious curling action without weird crimping or bends.

And they are workhorses! My own personal pair – which miraculously never seems to go “missing”, I have had for about 8 years now. It curls like a dream every time, and never breaks, despite being dumped unceremoniously in my makeup bag every day without fail.

Every makeup artist I know carries lash curlers, and there is a reason for this people – they make you prettier. You can’t go past the Shu original – it’s the best.

www.shuuemura.com

Video – Pat McGrath Does Major Lashes!

Posted on May 30, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

So it appears that uber-makeup artist Pat McGrath is an avid Makeup Mole reader! Not really (or if she is I don’t know about it), but great minds do think alike – look who posted a How-to Video on Maximal Lashes! Watch Pat recreate her now infamous major lashes, called “Spider Lashes” which I really like the sound of. What this lady doesn’t know about makeup, isn’t worth knowing. Watch, and learn.

Right Now: MyFace Paradisio Pink blush

Posted on May 26, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

This is SUCH a gorgeous colour. It’s a soft, baby pink that is unlike anything else I have in my kit. Close cousins would be NARS Mata Hari (but Mata Hari is paler) or Illamasqua’s Hussy (but Hussy is brighter). Paradisio Pink is just the perfect flush of face brightening pink. Kay Montano uses it regularly on Claudia Schiffer, who always looks pretty great in the face brightening blush department.

I do love a bit of MyFace – it’s a stand-alone fabulous makeup collection, and then add in the price point (I think this blush is £9.99, which is just unbelievable!) and you can’t go past them. Certainly there is nothing else in the High Street that compares to it, in my opinion. (Revlon is good too but I’m afraid their foundations let them down – I’ve reviewed the MyFace MyMix foundation before, and it’s amazing).

I also love the way they’ve broken down the makeup categories into Fair, Medium and Medium Dark, so even the most un-makeup savvy person can choose colours that will end up on their face, and not stuck at home in some drawer. Everyone needs the perfect pink blush, and this is it for me right now.

www.myfacecosmetics.com

The Foundation Files: Armani Luminous Silk

Posted on May 24, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

This was my first favourite foundation. I worked with this so much in the beginning of my career, and after a break of a few years, I’m coming back to it again.

It’s a lightweight, oil-free fluid foundation that gives good coverage without heaviness, and gives a beautiful sheen to the skin. It’s perfect for evening, or the red carpet, or if your life is more supermarket than red carpet, it works for that too!

Developed by Pat McGrath when she was the Creative Director of Armani Beauty when it first started, it very much espouses her philosophy of luminous, glowing skin. At the same time she also developed the Armani Fluid Sheers, which are luminizing liquids that were designed to be mixed in with the foundations, and they are absolutely gorgeous either on their own as a strategic highlight, or mixed in with the Luminous Silk foundation. I have a few of the Fluid Sheers but my favourite is no 2.

I like the colours that Luminous Silk comes in, as the colour range starts very pale and goes into really quite deep tones, although my one grumble with the shade range is that the shades for very dark skintones are just too red. In the States it goes up to Shade 13, and I find that anything up from 10 is very red-brown, so I hardly ever use them. (Becca is amazing for black skin, as are some of the Illamasqua deeper shades). The shade of 5 or 5.5 is so universally perfect that I go through far more bottles of that than any of the others.

I would say that it’s a slightly lighter weight foundation than Chanel Vitalumiere, and applies beautifully with a brush or sponge. The shade range is also more extensive than the other prestige beauty houses (Dior, Chanel, YSL), as it comes in 17 shades in the US.

It is an oil-free foundation, but as always if you are an oily gal do try before you buy as it can look a bit greasy if you live in a hot climate or have very oily skin.

And a big PS – the Armani Foundation brush is also awesome.

Armani Beauty has a new Creative Director, Linda Cantello, one of the most awesome of awesome makeup artists – let me tell you this lady was wielding a brush when you were in nappies, so she knows what she’s doing! The new face of the brand is the super-vixen, Megan Fox, and after a bit of a break Armani is back on my beauty radar in a big way.

See Linda’s work on the impeccably beautiful Megan Fox here:

Video: Peter Philips in the Chanel Makeup Studio

Posted on May 23, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

It’s just a Chanel-fest at the moment around MM HQ! I found this gorgeous video of Chanel’s Creative Director for Beauty, Peter Phillips (also, FYI, one of the best editorial makeup artists in the world) talking about…well, what it’s like to be Chanel’s Creative Director. If you’ve ever wanted to peek inside Coco Chanel’s apartment, or find out what time he gets up to do the Chanel show, now’s your chance. Oh, and check out the Arts and Crafts he did for Irving Penn! Unbelievable. So beautiful.

Trend – Maximal Lashes

Posted on May 20, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

One of the best looks from the recent Autumn/Winter 2011 catwalks was courtesy of the ever-inventive supremo head honcho patron saint of makeup artists, Pat McGrath. I call it Maximal Lashes.

Big doe-eyed dolly lashes like Twiggy on acid with her eyes hairsprayed. It’s the opposite of what we’re told lashes should look like – neat, ladylike, elegant and flirtatious – these new dudes are downright trash mama Valley of the Dolls lashes, completely 70’s and subversive, and that’s why we love ‘em.

Seen at major shows like Gucci and again at Valentino, this felt totally new and unexpected. Trust Pat to pull a new (old!) trick out of the bag.

For this look you just need a heavy-duty mascara and the patience to put on about 50 coats. And the clumpier the better!

I like to prep first with an undercoat – either Lancôme Cils Booster XL or MAC Prep and Prime are two good choices. Then go hell for leather, piling on multiple coats both top and bottom until you have the desired spidery effect.

The best mascaras for this look are ones you can build without it getting too crunchy straight away. Favourites of mine for this look include Diorshow, Lancome Hypnose, CoverGirl Lashblast (which I’ve seen supermodel Lily Donaldson use to great effect on a shoot before), and Becca The Ultimate Mascara. This is brilliant as it has a tubing formula allowing you to get serious length AND heft, so you can clump at will.

False lashes are optional, although I prefer the look with just your real lashes – it looks cooler that way, not trying too hard. And with lashes this gorgeous, all you need is great skin, a juicy mouth and a smile.

So get clumping!

New Beauty Breakdown: Christina Ricci at the Met Ball

Posted on May 19, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Christina Ricci at the Met Ball

Makeup by Kabuki

Christina Ricci looked I think, the best I have ever seen her at last week’s Met Ball. Wearing an incredibly dramatic black lace Zac Posen gown with a full, heart-stopping train, her hair and makeup were just perfection.

Makeup artist Kabuki (who is Kylie Minogue’s go-to makeup guy) was responsible for making the most of her elfin beauty. He said:

“Christina was great. I told her that I like to show off and she replied that she did too, so we were on the same page from the beginning. She said she wanted the eyes a bit on the strong side, like a silent movie actress. The make-up references from stylist Christopher Niquet were reminiscent of 19th century portraits, the women looked very misty and romantic…

The incredible gown had yet to arrive at the hotel room, but I had seen a picture of Christina in it – with no hair and make-up – and she looked like a million dollars.

So, with Christopher’s references, Christina’s request for strong eyes and that fabulous gown on my mind, I proceeded to design the make-up look. I wanted to continue the sheer effect of the transparent fabric of the gown into the make-up. I achieved this by layering shades of gray and beige shadow and using lots of black mascara.”

Here’s what he used:

Skin prep

NARS Aqua Gel Hydrator
Homeoplasmine on lips (an MM fave! From Paris pharmacies)

Foundation

MyFace Mymix foundation in Fair 02

Powder

Myface Mymatch Powder in Fair

Cheeks

Contoured with Smashbox Bronze Lights Suntan Matte

Eyes

Bamboom Paint by MAC all over lid
Myface Hi- Def Eye pencil in Black outlining the lash line, blended with a brush. Then blended the pencil into the crease outer corner.
Went over pencil lightly with a matte grey and beige eyeshadow from the Viseart Neutral Shadow palette.
Curled lashes with a Japonesque curler, and lots of Diorshow mascara.

Brows

Used a MAC Alcohol Mixing Medium to mix a colour combination from brown, black and grey Aqua colours by Kryolan, and then painting them on with fine strokes.

Lips

NARS Roman Holiday Velvet Matte Pencil

New Collection! Chanel Summer Les Fleurs d’Été de Chanel

Posted on May 17, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Wow, where do I start with this one? It’s been burning a hole in my kit ever since I got to try it a little while ago – in a word, it’s gorgeous. Chanel’s Creative Director, Peter Phillips, never ceases to amaze me, as he just gets it right, collection after collection. Perfectly what you want to wear when the weather gets warmer, but never clichéd. Check out the new ad below:

First off, the eyesahdow Quad in Lilium. I have blogged about my love for Chanel Eyeshadow quads before and still really, I can’t get enough of them. This one has a deep, hunter green, a citrus-y lime, a pale pink and a gorgeous grey taupe which for all those taupe lovers out there is quite beautiful as it’s shot through with a pink and green duochrome. Lilium’s closest Chanel counterparts would be Garden Party (although the colours on that are much more wintry), and Nymphaea, an oldie but a goodie.

One of the things that people complain about with Chanel quads is their pigment pay-off, which I have to confess is not as strong as other brands on the market (like Illamasqua or MAC), but it is definitely improving. I compared the new Lagons eyeshadow quad (which is DIVINE, by the way), with Bleu Celestes which it is not dissimilar too colour-wise, and the pay-off of Lagons is much better and the colours more vibrant. I love those quads for the colours, and the way they go together, as they’re just unlike anything else and they always have exactly the right amount of shimmer. (Please note I am speaking about the European quads, not the US ones as they are a completely different formulation).

So both Lilum and Lagons have made it into my kit – not that Bleu Celestes has gone anywhere, that’s still a favourite. When will I stop with the Chanel Eyeshadow quads? Someone needs to organize a makeup intervention!

The new bronzer, Soleil Tan de Chanel in Bronze Rose, is a gradated bronzer with a strip of pink at the end that provides a beautiful wash of colour. It’s not the deepest darkest bronzer around, so those with deeper complexions should definitely try before they buy. It also comes in a coral version, Bronze Corail, which also looks beautiful. I am loving the soft tan-pink flush that Bronze Rose gives.

The bright yellow nail polish, Mimosa, I wasn’t sure if I could get into but three coats of this sunshine in a bottle has made my feet feel like – well like this:

(Although not the bit about dancing in a squat, or her makeup, which needs to be locked in a vault labelled “Never to Be Released”, but the song, yes.) Mimosa has just enough pearl in it to lift the yellow and make it wearable since matte yellows can be quite hard to wear.

Probably my favourite of the collection though has to be the Stylo Yeux Waterproof in Rose Platine. It’s a shimmering icy pink-y taupe that isn’t frosty or nasty, but has just the right amount of light reflection to give your gaze that little extra something – the one that says “I am gorgeous” but you can’t tell why. Not “Hi! I have a strip of pearlescent eye highlighter going on! I look like a disco ball!”

Like all Chanel collections this one just makes you feel like you should be on a yacht somewhere, cruising past Cap Ferrat or St Tropez on the way to some fancy party, and quite frankly that’s how you want to feel after dropping serious money at a makeup counter. Well I do, anyway. On this, Chanel ALWAYS delivers.

www.chanel.com
The Chanel Summer Collection is currently on-counter in the UK, and will be available in Australia from the 29th May.

An Interview with Illamasqua’s Founder, Julian Kynaston

Posted on May 16, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

Photo by Jacie at www.youvegotnail.com

Today we have a special treat as I have an interview with the Founder and Joint MD of Illamasqua, Julian Kynaston. Recently named as the fastest growing makeup company EVER, he has good reason to be proud of the cult UK makeup brand that he started a little over two years ago and has taken the world, quite literally, by storm. It has heralded in a new era of pride in the art of wearing makeup – not just through the arresting visuals (part of the genius of their Creative Director, Alex Box), but in the incredible pigment pay off of the products that allows you to play and experiment in completely unique way. Other makeup companies have had this ethos in the past, but now most counters on the makeup floor play it pretty safe – but never Illamasqua! Here’s what Julian had to say when I spoke to him:

1. What prompted you to create Illamasqua?

People told me that the only way to make an impact in the global make up market was to have in excess of 25 million pounds or take 25 years. We had neither but love a challenge. We believe in out-thinking and not outspending competition

2. Why did you get involved with the Sophie Lancaster foundation?

We were setting out to build a brand which would empower women to wear make up louder and bolder than ever before and for men to wear make up way beyond the cliche of eyeliner and concealer. Somewhere else Sophie Lancaster was killed for being a Goth – murdered for the way she chose to look and live her life. It felt natural to work with Sophie’s mum Sylvia to help build the charity and spread the message to Stamp Out Prejudice Hatred and Intolerance Everywhere ( S.O.P.H.I.E)

3. How did Joe Corre come to be involved with Illamasqua?

When Joe sold Agent Provocateur he wanted to launch a make up brand. Joe was introduced to Illamasqua and thought ‘wow’. He decided to play with us as our ideas were exactly the same as his ambitions for doing something very different in a very safe sector.

4. What’s coming up next for Illamasqua?

More own stores, fragrance (Joe Correis leading this, having already achieved rare commercial success with the first fragrance at Agent Provocateur) and as with Illamasqua… more and more inspiration for those who crave it.

5. What do you like doing in your spare time?

Thinking up ideas for Illamasqua, walking, shopping, Tweeting.

www.illamasqua.com

Armani Aqua di Gioia – Perfume and Project

Posted on May 13, 2011 by The Makeup Mole

I have exciting news everyone – the return of my nose! Well not literally, but figuratively speaking. What’s she talking about now? I hear you ask – well you might wonder why I never cover fragrance on my blog, and that’s because my sense of smell got all messed up when I was pregnant with my son (this is quite some time ago now.) It was like my body re-set itself so I could only handle wearing the perfume I was wearing when I fell pregnant, which was Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey. Every other fragrance made me want to be sick, so L’eau d’Issey has been my only possible perfume for the last eight years. This from a woman who used to have a dressing table covered in perfume (in my defense, it was the 80’s, and if you couldn’t clear a room with your vapour trail of Giorgio Beverly Hills or Christian Dior Poison, you weren’t trying hard enough, quite frankly.)

But I think my body might be letting me wear other perfumes again! I tried the new Armani Aqua di Gioia fragrance and loved it – and even managed to keep it on for a full day, with no ill effects. This is big, people – it seems I might finally be out of the woods, olfactorily speaking.

Not only is it potentially responsible for my re-entry into the world of smelling fabulous again, but it is part of a project that Mr Armani (I met him at work when I was in London and he really is Mr Armani, what a gracious man) has put together to provide clean drinking water for children in Africa. He has set an “Aqua for Life” challenge to provide 40 million litres worldwide of drinking water to populations without any access to it, primarily children. 900 million people globally are still deprived of safe, clean water for their daily essential needs. Living in the West we can’t even imagine that, but over 4,000 children die EVERY day from water-borne diseases. Working alongside the non-governmental organization, Green Cross International, Mr Armani has offered to make two of his most famous fragrances, Acqua di Gio and Acqua di Gioia the vehicles to be involved. As of March 1^st, 2011, every bottle sold will generate a donation of 100 litres of drinking water per year to children and their communities. The operation will begin in Ghana, in West Africa, where some 40% of the rural population does not have access to drinking water, and over time the operation will be extended to other countries.

If you wish to find out more about the Aqua for Life campaign, visit www.acquaforlifechallenge.org, or find them on Facebook at www.facebook.com/aquaforlife

Not only is the fragrance delicious, it’s an amazing project to be involved with. Go Mr Armani!

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: