The Mole Patrol – Five Top Faves

MakeupMole - FavesThis time of year one’s mind starts turning to all things cosy and wintry, so it’s time for a snuggle-fest on the Mole Patrol. Crack out that duvet, whip up some hot chocolate and slather yourself in serious moisturizer for that dry and winter parched skin – it’s a cold weather delight!

Embryolisse moisturizer

This is a must for winter skin. It’s heavy and glues back all those lovely dry

crack-y bits you get when your nose turns red. I always put it back in my kit at this time of year as more and more models start turning up with their faces falling off due to too much heating inside, the cold outside, and seeing as they’re so gorgeous and can get away with it, often a diet of caffeine and cigarettes. Embryolisse to the rescue. Word on the makeup streets is that what you buy in Parisian pharmacies is better than their export stuff (which you can get in London at the makeup shop PAM in Shepherd’s Bush).

Illamasqua Cake Liner in Mislead with Sealing Gel

Because this sucker don’t move. I’d read all the raves on the internet but only recently have I tried it, and it is amazing. So when the wind is blowing and you’re swaddled in scarves and beanies, at least your eyes will still look like Audrey Hepburn’s (even if the rest of you looks like Freddie Krueger).

Bobbi Brown Eye Palette in Velvet Plum

Fab neutrals that would suit any eye color, and an amazing dense black brown eyeshadow which is a surprisingly difficult color to find in other ranges. Combined with the Illamasqua Cake liner it is a wintry winner.

Chanel Particuliere Nail Polish

Straight from the Paris shows (where she created 50 shades of nude nails for Louis Vuitton) Sophy Robson’s top nail color for the coming season is Chanel Particuliere. Sure to be as coveted as last season’s Jade and the original got-to-have-it nail color, Rouge Noir, I fell in love from the second I saw it. It’s a weird taupe-y mauve color that’s like dead people’s hands, but better. The fashion pack are going to love it! I think the new Chanel shade is chic, effortless and original – just like Chanel really.

Benetint by Benefit

Aaah, a hardy perennial – just rescued from the makeup Vault where it has been languishing for quite a while, this is the perfect outdoor flush for when it gets cold. I do love a wind burned cheek (well a fake one, not a real one!) this time of year, and this bestselling 30 year old tinted liquid made from rose petals is still the original, and still the best.

Alex Box and Rankin Book Launch

Alex-Box-MakeupLast night was the champagne fueled and much anticipated launch of makeup artist Alex Box’s amazing new book, The Makeup Artist, with photographer Rankin.

At the Annroy gallery in North London over 400 of the city’s fashion luminaries were there to mark the occasion. Jefferson Hack, Anouk Lepere and Erin O’ Connor were just a few of the fashion pack who came to admire Alex’s incredible makeup artistry. Blown up and super-sized it was possible to really admire her attention to detail and her extraordinary imagination. It is the first publication and exhibition of her work – if you want to see makeup without boundaries, this is it! The exhibition is on at the Annroy Gallery, Kentish Town, from the 23rd October to the 23rd November, and the book is published by Turnaround and retails for £50. For any lovers of the divine Miss Box’s work – and they are legion! This book is a must-have.

Alex Box is creative director of Illamasqua Cosmetics and her editorial work can regularly be seen in V, Numero and Vogue.

The Interview – Serge Lutens

Serge-LutensMakeupMole has been incredibly fortunate to have been granted a rare interview from world-famous perfumer and makeup artist, Serge Lutens. After more than forty years in the beauty business he has some rare insights to offer. I am very grateful to Mr Lutens for taking the time to answer my questions.

1) Aside from Serge Lutens Beaute, what are you working on at the moment?

To tell you the truth, to me it doesn’t even feel like working! Let’s just say things happened along the way. It’s not a job as such but the identity of a moment.

2) What was your favourite makeup job ever?

I would say that for me, makeup was not a choice, but it presented itself to me, and it transformed my imagination in that instant. Makeup is the medium that permitted me to create these images that represent an expression. The makeup is the passage from what is real to what is imagined, the passage of the white fixed by the powder…when the skin is transformed into stone. After this step, the rest is a continuation of the story and the way it is inscribed on the skin.

3) What was your worst makeup job ever?

The moment I was mistaken for a makeup artist!

4) Top 5 products you would recommend?

Who am I to recommend something? Makeup for me is not central. It is one of the things of which I construct my artistic vision. The product could be coal, flour or even a mask (Japanese Noh theatre remains one of the most beautiful in the world!) What interests me in the end is the ritual and what it means. The expression is more important than the instrument that creates it: the paint doesn’t make the painting or the pretty pen a writer!Serge-Lutens-makeup

5) If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their makeup, then what would it be?

If it is makeup for makeup’s sake then it is of no interest to me. If the makeup represents something one wants to express in that instant, it becomes an instrument and this is interesting, but not to be made up is also makeup in itself!

6) How is it different to when you started?

That’s a long time ago. By chance I was working in a hair salon, and two years later on a busy day, I cut a strand of hair that was for me, a rupture with what was surrounding me, and “I cut short” my hair career. This was an awakening!

7) Which work are you most proud of?
It has never been about work for me. I have made things and said things and written things – all have been instruments but none have been central.

8) What do you love doing in your spare time?

Free time at home is used doing the same things – I am always searching for something! I am permanently active. I don’t read books or watch films to distract myself because I am always searching for something.

Serge Lutens Beaute is available in the UK at Harvey Nichols London and in the US at Barneys New York.

Check out my review of Serge Lutens’s fabulous  lipstick here

Beauty breakdown – Cheryl Cole for Elle magazine

Cheryl-Cole-for-Elle-by-Kay-MontanoMakeup by Kay Montano

Recently Kay did Cheryl Cole’s makeup for the cover of ELLE magazine, and the look was cool and fashion forward whilst bringing out Cheryl’s natural beauty. Watch the behind-the-scenes video as well to see what went on the day of the shoot, and see Kay talk about the makeup

Base – Chanel Vitalumiere in Shell 30

Powder – Chanel Natural Finish Loose Powder in Clair 20

Blush – Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Pink Truffle

Eyes – Chanel Bleu Celestes quad (the very dark navy in this quad) in a soft ‘halo’ shape around the eye

Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in Smoky Noir

Lips – NARS Belle de Jour lipstick

Beauty Breakdown – Rachel Weisz at Agora premiere, Madrid.

Rachel WeiszKay Montano was in Madrid last weekend helping Rachel Weisz promote her new movie, Agora, and this is what she used for the premiere.

Base – Chanel Vitalumiere in Clair 20.

Concealer – Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage in SC-3

Blush – Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge Pink Truffle applied with a sponge on ‘apple’ of cheek.

Powder – Jurlique powder in Rose brushed on ‘T’ zone.

Eyes – Julie Hewitt Los Angeles cream eye shadow in Rue Burgundy on top lids to create density followed by Chanel eye shadow in Amethyst which was used to blend colour softly around entire eye.

- Ecriture De Chanel in Black used to line along the root of top lashes, ticking outward slightly.

Mascara – Exceptionnel De Chanel in Smoky Noir on top & lower lashes.

Lips – Bobbi Brown lip liner in Blush with Nude Lip Balm mixed with a tiny amount of Chanel Rouge Allure in Maniac (part of the autumn/winter Les Noirs Obscurs collection).

Bin It – Chantecaille Total Concealer

Chantecaille Total ConcealerOh how it pains me to write a negative review about Chantecaille – there are so many great products in their lovely, plant based botanical range – but this ain’t one of them.

I have tried this concealer quite a few times because I do so want to like it – their Future Skin foundation is one of my all-time favourites – but every time it’s just one big disappointment. I’ve tried it on a few jobs, and at home on myself, to no avail.

It’s a thick cream which I paint on with a small brush (as I do with all my concealers), and it doesn’t sheer out properly – it sits on the area you’re trying to conceal like concrete spackle. To be fair, it is a full coverage concealer and I know there is a market for this type of product, however it’s a bit hardcore to my tastes. With a bit more blending it improves, but it sort of clings to the under eye area, making it look powdery, cakey and dry – not cute! You know those pictures of celebrities you see every once in awhile when they look like a deer caught in the headlights, their under eyes flashing like radioactive fallout due to over-zealous concealer application? This is what I’m talking about. Even worse, it disappears after a couple of hours, leaving a pale, powdery residue on a hitherto corrected but now obviously UN-corrected dark circle. Great. Thanks.

They have another concealer called Bio-Lift Concealer which is supposed to be amazing, so I’ll need to give it a go soon in order to recover from the shock of a Chantecaille product I don’t like – really, it’s quite disturbing. I love their skincare, foundations, brushes and blushes – even their eyebrow pencils are pretty good. But the Total Concealer? Not so much.

BIN IT!

Bag It – Nude Age Defense Moisturiser

Nude Age Defense MoisturiserI have to admit to being a bit of a sucker for organic skincare – I like the advantages it has over its chemical counterparts and the general organic ethos of being kind to the planet whilst we’re kind to ourselves (and what’s more beautiful than that?)

Nude Skincare is one of the original players in this new and burgeoning market – they have an extensive range of pre and probiotic plant based botanical products, and the Age Defense Moisturiser is the one that has crept into my kit, replacing my old faithful Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturiser.

I love the Age Defense because it leaves skin soft but not slippery, providing quite a nice matte base for makeup. It has orchid and the new wonder oil, argan to reduce wrinkles (not that any of my clients have those!), and hyaluronic acid keeps water in the skin where it belongs. And best of all it does it without parabens, sulphates or mineral oils, so none of the usual skincare nasties. I also love it because it is carbon neutral, ethically responsible with the ingredients it uses, and doesn’t test on animals (and with the recent surge in laboratory experiments on animals, this is increasingly becoming a concern of mine – there’s nothing uglier than unnecessary suffering).

The smell at first is a little earthy for those of us used to all the chemical stuff coming out of the lab, but actually now I’ve been using it for awhile I quite like it. And once you try organic skincare, I promise, you’ll be hooked. Kay is a huge advocate of it, regularly using the lip balm on her celeb clientele, and silkening Claudia Schiffer’s famous and endless legs in the Body Moisturiser. It just might be going on my wish-list for Santa this year – after all it is October, and I have been good!

Nude Age Defense Moisturiser – BAG IT!

www.nudeskincare.com

The Icons – Serge Lutens

Serge LutensI decided at MM HQ that it is time to pay homage to the greatest makeup artists of all time, the ones that have paved the way for makeup artists like myself, particularly in the past when being a makeup artist wasn’t really a job. They were the real innovators. Before the internet and “co-branding opportunities” and “celebrity makeup artists” and products that have been developed using NASA technology, there were amazing makeup artists who transformed women with simple powders and paints and showed what today we take for granted – that beauty can be mentally and physically transformative.

These are the people who have not only forged a career and a permanent place in the lexicon of fashion, but throughout their working lives have created images that have fed the imaginations of today’s creatives – a shared lexicon and a sort of collective unconscious that every day is referred to on fashion shoots around the world. It is time we honored those who blazed a trail for us to follow.

Witness please, the re-birth of Full Makeup – from the late 70’s to the 80’s every model was re-sculpted with makeup (and not just in earth tones!) Eyes, lips, contoured cheeks – it was all there, in every image, creating a hyper-real Amazonian woman of unparalleled glamour. And at the forefront of this was Serge Lutens.

Born in 1942, in Lille, France, he started as a hairdresser and by 1962 was working for the already hugely prestigious French Vogue. Mr Lutens was the first makeup artist appointed to create Dior cosmetics in the 1960’s – bearing in mind that the brand then became the original powerhouse of luxury cosmetics through the 70’s and 80’s. Not content with just being a makeup artist, he went on to become a very well regarded photographer and film-maker in his own right. He is perhaps best known for his work with the Japanese brand Shiseido – the inspirational and haunting print and TV ads of the 70’s and 80’s really took the brand international. I remember at a very young age being astounded by these ads and the world beyond my own life in rural Australia that they suggested.

But he didn’t stop there – in the 90’s he launched a range of scents that redefined luxury perfumes and that are sold at the best stores across the world – there are now 23 perfumes in all, including the cult classic Ambre Sultan.SergeLutens2

In this millennium he has created a new challenge for himself – he has launched a small but perfect range of makeup items that are designed to be the best at what they do – the perfect black kohl, the best mascara, and I think regular MM readers know what a fan I am of the lipstick! It is very expensive, beautifully packaged and a true makeup lovers’ dream – the perfect encapsulation of Serge Lutens’s interpretation of modern beauty. Simple, classic, timeless – always in style.

His influence cannot be overestimated – I know the extraordinary makeup artist Alex Box cites him as one of her makeup inspirations, and seeing his work from the 70’s it looks as fresh today as it did then. Here are two videos for your enjoyment – one of the great master at work, and the other one of his Shiseido commercials from 1973.

Necessaire Beauté de Serge Lutens is at Harvey Nichols London and Barney’s New York in the US.