Beauty Breakdown – Claudia Schiffer at D&G perfumes launch, Milan. Makeup by Kay Montano

Claudia Schiffer at the Dolce & Gabanna Perfume Launch in MilanBase – Chanel Vitalumiere foundation in 20 Clair

Powder – Jurlique Lavender Powder on T-zone

Blush – Chanel Mystery blush

Eyes – Chanel Ambre eye pencil smudged around eyes

Chanel eyeshadow in brown from the Variations quad, heavily swept into the socket line with a soft artist’s brush

Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink

Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in black top and bottom,

with individual lash clusters on the outer corners of lashline

Lips – Jurlique Love Balm with MAC Lip Erase in Dim

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Richard Nicholl show

Richard Nicholl ShowOur final report of the week comes from Richard Nicholl’s show – predictably another standout show from the Aussie designer.

The makeup from Sam Bryant’s team was either a wash or purple or a wash of orange on the eyes. These were created using a mixture of textures – creams, shimmer powders, and pigment mixed with MAC Mixing Medium.

The show was sponsored by MAC.

Purple and Orange Eyes

Base – MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, with MAC Pearl Cream Color Base as a highlight

Eyes – Purple

Apply a  color wash of purple crème all over eyelid, from lash line to browbone

Mix MAC Fuchsia pigment with MAC Makeup mixer and apply to outer corners for intensity

MAC Swish Frost eyeshadow

Eyes – Orange

MAC Dusty Coral Paint Stick washed all over eye

MAC Basic Red Paint Stick blended and washed into the Dusty Coral

Blush – Powder blush blended right into the temples and hairline (the product used was a Mineralize duo that’s not yet available)

Lips – Dab crème colors over lips with fingertip and blend

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – TopShop Unique show

Top Shop UniqueNiamh Kavanagh was on Miranda Joyce’s team yesterday, for TopShop Unique, where the inspiration for the show was none other than Pamela Anderson, who is rapidly gaining a living icon status.

Hair was by the ever- amazing hair wiz Paul Hanlon and featured totally disheveled ponytails gripped with neon-pink bows.

Sponsored by MAC

Neon Pink Pumped up Lips

Base – MAC Studio Sculpt foundation, really minimal, only where needed

Lips – MAC Magenta Madness pigment, with Pink Shock Cream Color Base

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Jenny Packham show

Jenny Packham showThe breakdowns continue! Niamh Kavanagh was on Charlotte Tilbury’s team yesterday afternoon for the Jenny Packham show, where the reference was grunge muse, Courtney Love.

This season MAC seem to have dialed down their ubiquitous presence at the shows, however even without sponsorship it seems no catwalk look is complete without a healthy dose of MAC. It leaves the playing field wide open for other companies – like NARS, Lancome and Illamasqua to sponsor shows, as the PR that follows is great for brand exposure.

Courtney Love Beautiful Grunge look – Charlotte Tilbury

Base – Very pale, using MyFace Fair foundation and MyFace Pressed Powder in Fair (which Niamh tells me is amazing!) all over face, down neck and onto arms for a Seattle moon-glow.

Eyes – Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil in Smoky Black along the upper lash line, with no blending, and no winging at the outer corners.

MyFace Black mascara on top lashes, and slightly on lower lashes

MAC Clear Gloss all over top lid, up to the browbone, with a bit of the Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Smoky Black liner mixed in with it, to create a shiny grey wash.

Lips – MAC Brick lip liner all over entire lip, then a mixture of MAC Ruby Woo lipstick and MAC Black Lipmix was dabbed on top of this to create a burgundy stain.

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – John Rocha Show

John Rocha Antique Dolls London Fashion WeekThe look for John Rocha was very antique dolls – Sam Bryant’s team on makeup, and Sam Hillerby on hair.

Base – MAC Face and Body in C1, to make the girls slightly paler than their natural color

Eyes – Illamasqua palette in Solstice over the entire lid up to the brow.

MAC Gold pigment dusted over lid and into the crease to really add definition, and also up into the brows, onto the temples and over the cheekbones.

Then to make the shape more Egyptian, MAC Mixing Medium was added to the Gold pigment and worked into the inner and outer eye corners to make a more unusual eye shape.

Cheeks – Ben Nye Orange and Pink cream blushes, mixed together applied in an upside down triangle shape to cheeks, then blended well

Lips – The same Ben Nye cheek colors were used on the lips.

MakeupMole @ London Fashion Week – Eon Jeong Show

Eon JeongSo the madness begins! London Fashion Week has kicked off again and I can guarantee that right at this moment hundreds of hairdryers are being used, lips are getting stained in all sorts of colors and mascara is going on lovely curled lashes all over this fair city. I’ll be bringing you the beauty breakdowns as they happen – the clothes, the girls, but most importantly – what eyeliner are they wearing?

Our first backstage report comes courtesy of makeup artist Niamh Kavanagh who is quite the lady in demand this season. She has shows all over town on teams ranging from Sam Bryant’s to Charlotte Tilbury’s. Her first show was Eon Jeong, with key makeup artist, Polly Osmond.

Eon Jeong was held at Somerset House which is Fashion Base Camp this season, and the energy backstage was off the charts! Alain Pichon was rocking out crazy big hair which is already looking like becoming something of a trend this season, storming the runways of New York and now hopping the pond over to London.

The show was sponsored by Loreal Cosmetics. The makeup was icy white eyes with a very clean base.

Base – L’Oreal’s Studio Secrets foundation, all over to even skin tone

Eyes – Studio Secrets white eyeliner inside and around both upper and lower eyelids

Mascara – Using the white of the Double Extension Renewal mascara to add a ‘touch of white’ to the lashes, top and bottom

Lips – Finish off with Studio Secrets lip lacquer 410 by gently pressing in to the lip with tips of fingers

In My Makeup Kit: No Longer Reliant on the Kindness of Strangers

Zuca BagAnyone who’s been following my Twitter feeds this past week or so, knows that I’m crazy about my new Züca bag, and today I’m going to tell you why.

Carting a suitcase full of makeup all over town goes with the territory of being a makeup artist, especially in London where you need to be prepared for pretty much anything. But when it weighs about two thirds of what you do it can get a bit out of control, and eventually the inevitable happened and my overburdened body gave out and I ended up at the doctor’s. Months later after my ligament injury I am finally recovering, but I’ve had to seriously re-assess my work life. Enter Züca.

Designed by an engineer for a daughter with a back problem (due to carting around too many school books – I’ve been there, too!), it’s a simple idea – a bag with a seat.

A seat I tell you! So no matter where the studio, the location, the train, whether I’m waiting outside a Winnebago whilst the star is getting dressed, or in a field all day watching the shot on location, I can sit down if I want to. Already I’m sold!

It also has special square mesh bags that maximize the space available. Because they’re flat and zip open, you can stack them in the bag, put them out on your work surface and away you go. I separate different areas with smaller bags inside, and it makes unpacking and re-packing super easy. Zuca Bag and its individual pouches

Then there’s the wheels that you can push up and DOWN stairs, since it pushes forward as well as it rolls backward, and I no longer have to heave the whole darn thing up when I reach a flight of stairs (and anyone who’s worked anywhere in East London knows just how many steps there can sometimes be!)

It’s not a huge bag, but now I’ve decanted everything, it doesn’t need to be. And really I’d rather be a bit more organized with a LOT less stuff, and still have a body that can do makeup for years to come.

For more information on Züca bags, check out www.zuca.com

Beauty Breakdown: Lady Gaga Hello Kitty Shoot – with pics!

Lady Gaga Hello Kitty by Kay MontanoI’m re-posting this makeup breakdown Kay Montano did for Lady Gaga’s Hello Kitty shoot a few weeks ago, as the pictures have now been released. Shot by celebrated photographers Marcus Klinko and Indrani to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the Hello Kitty line, you really have to see these anime eyes to believe it!

Base – Chanel Vitalumiere in No. 20 Clair

Powder – Chanel Translucent powder to create the perfect bas

Eyes – Make Up For Ever Flash Colors 12 color box of crème makeup to paint exaggerated green Japanese eyes on her eyelids, with MAC Prep+Prime powder to set

Eyeliner – Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink

Mascara – Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in black

Lashes – 2 sets of MAC eyelashes, 1 on the browbone to create false top lash

Lips – Chanel Coco Pink lipstick (US exclusive).

In My Makeup Kit: Serge Lutens Lipstick No1

Serge Lutins Lipstick No1There’s a new diva in town, and she’s one classy broad. She’s the deepest, most perfect, devilish red, she’s like Louboutins for your lips – pop her on, and the night is yours for the taking. You can’t help but be a femme fatale in this gorgeous, Rita Hayworth 1940’s power pin-up shade – honestly I could go on all day about my new favourite lipstick – Serge Lutens No. 1.

Densely pigmented and yet really creamy, this is no ordinary lipstick – it feels like a Rolls Royce with its heavy black lacquer packaging, yet it’s small size bullet is tiny enough to go in the smallest evening clutch. And I love that its sharply beveled edges make drawing the perfect lip line a total cinch – no lip liner required. It’s official – this new(ish) range of makeup is my new obsession.

For the uninitiated Serge Lutens is an icon amongst makeup artists, and this perfect jewel of a makeup line really is the culmination of years of obsessive perfection to detail. He’s distilled the essential makeup items into one tiny yet mighty collection, and from what I’ve tried so far I’m in love. It is definitely an über-prestige line though, so if you’re looking for a quick cheap fix this is going to be right out of your league. However if you’re looking for an amazing piece of makeup that will make your heart sing – well she’s only a Harvey Nichols away.

Serge Lutens Beaute is available in the UK exclusively from Harvey Nichols London, and in the US can be found at Barneys.

The Mole Patrol – Five Top Faves

Chanel - Le VernisMAC lipstickChanel Vendetta nail polish
Superstar manicurist Sophy Robson put me on to this one, and it is indeed a winner. Deep, shimmering sparkles in a purple black base are making me dream of cold winter nights. Chanel does it again!

Bobbi Brown cream eyeshadow in Galaxy
Just this side of gunmetal, it’s lovely on it’s own tucked at the lash line with a black pencil, or as a base for winter’s opulent shades of grey – the new take on the smoky eye.

Revlon brushes
What a revelation these are! Perfect sizes, great for blending and super soft bristles. Usually I’m not a drugstore makeup girl, but these brushes leave some of their much pricier counterparts in the shade. The foundation brush is excellent, as are the blush and powder brushes.

MAC lipstick in Underworld
Proper old skool 90’s red brown, the color of the season. Just this side of brick red – so wrong, it’s right!

Chantecaille Flower Infused Cleansing Milk
Gentle, aromatic, flower infused and a perfect transition for your skin into the cooler months.