Monthly Archives: August 2009

The Interview – Hairdresser Extraordinaire, Neil Moodie

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Here at Makeup Mole it’s usually all about the makeup – makeup, makeup and more makeup, and when we’re done, for dessert? A healthy slathering of makeup!

But I have to confess today it’s not about the makeup, it’s about the hair – to be exact, an interview with the extraordinary, and very lovely hairdresser, Neil Moodie.

Neil has worked for a who’s who of the fashion industry, recently wrapping campaigns for Gap and Hugo Boss and tending the tresses of Harry Potter star Emma Watson. And as if that’s not enough, he’s also created a line of Pro styling tools called WAM that utilize his background from fashion shoots to create professional tools that deliver top of the line session hairstyling performance, at home.

I am by no means a top hairdresser, but I do love the innovative shape of the WAM hairdryer that gives you options on how to hold it, and it really is one of the slickest hair machines around. The curling tongs and straightening irons are equally high-performance and are regularly tested on the world’s supermodels! You can learn more about WAM Tools at www.wamhair.com.NeilMoodieVogueCivers

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Aside from WAM what are you doing at the moment?WAM

Working on putting some beauty shoots together for a couple of big publications and working on some new Iconic head hats with Flora Mclean.

Favourite hair job ever?

Very tough question to answer but I think working on the Kate Moss Pictures with Corinne Day for the National Portrait gallery, because they will be part of the permanent exhibition there, so it makes them very special to me.

Worst hair job ever?

An advertising job in Paris about 8 years ago. it was my birthday and we worked until 4 in the morning, then a certain person who shall remain nameless but made the shoot so difficult for everyone, asked if I would cut their hair at 4am when the shoot ended – I had to do the haircut, and I’ve never forgiven them for being so mean and have always turned down working with them ever since, because I don’t court meanness!

Top 5 products?

Mason and Pearson Brush, Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray, WAM Hairdryer, WAM curling Irons and Japanese Serrated Pins.

If you could tell women to do one thing differently with their hair, what would it be?

Stop straightening their hair with straightening irons so it looks like a wig.  It never looks good and never will. It looks like they are trying to prove that they have a set of straightening irons, rather than proving they have great hair. It also ruins their hair too, so not a good idea all round! Please stop ladies!!!!!!

How did you get started in the business?

I’ve been hairdressing for 25 years this year and after working in salons for 10 years I met legendary photographer Corinne Day who asked me to do the hair for a shoot for The Face magazine after I colored the models hair pre- shoot as a favour. The original hairdresser who was to work on the shoot dropped out at the last minute due to other commitments, so Corinne called me and asked if I could step in. The rest is history!

How is it different to when you started?

Very!  The media coverage on the fashion industry has meant a lot more people are now wanting to work in fashion because they think it brings fame, but the people who really do well are actually successful because they are just really passionate about their work and don’t care about the fame.

Which work are you most proud of?

My first Vogue cover with Gisele. It feels like such an achievement to have a Vogue cover as there are only 12 a year. It was so exciting to see it on the shelf in newsagents.

I’m also proud of my hat collections, Iconic Heads, which I collaborated on with Flora McLean, because it took me out of my hair comfort zone, yet they’ve been very popular, which is a great feeling when you step outside of your work parameters.

What do you love doing in your spare time?

Running, yoga, watching tennis (and playing badly occasionally), watching movies and going to art galleries. I love listening to music with my headphones on too as it can change your mood immensely.

A Whiter Shade of Pale

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Gothic Drama at Zac PosenIt started as a murmur at the last Fashion Week – not a bronzer in sight, instead either natural skin tomes or slightly paler, bones highlighted with judicious use of contour and luminiser. Then came Twilight, the vampire film seemingly beloved by all, and the murmur became a whisper, and now with the release of New Moon (the sequel to Twilight), and the fact that I haven’t opened my bronzer bag in six months, I think the whisper is officially a roar – pale skin is back in.

It will be interesting to see what the next round of Fashion Weeks brings up in September, but I don’t see paler skin going anywhere. When the only people wedded to their toxic tans seem to be Lindsey Lohan, Victoria Beckham and Jordan, I do think it’s time to move on and embrace the skin you’re in, one free of nasty melanomas and prematurely aged by the sun.

Being on the lighter side myself I can attest too many long Australian summers in the sun, cooking myself to my deepest color – a disappointing watery tea shade that invariably burned, and took about 150 hours of hard core sun exposure to get what I could have done in half an hour in the bathroom with a coat of Clarins fake tan. So even on holidays now I protect myself with SPF 50, and try not to worry too much about those toxic (but oh so enjoyable!) rays. Thus it’s great to see that there is a new movement afoot to embrace our natural, un-suntanned selves. Just in time for winter!Kristen Stewart as Bella Swan in Twilight

Chantecaille have introduced a new pale shade of their fabulous Future Skin foundation, which was sorely lacking from their line before, and both MAC and Illamasqua do pure white foundations for the fairest amongst you.  Kay Montano uses Becca Sherbert when she is looking after the creamy complexion of regular client, Nicole Kidman, and for highlighting the alabaster-skinned I like either Becca Pearl, or Pat McGrath’s favourite, Armani Fluid Sheer in 0.

And of course for our friends whose skin is NEVER going to be a whiter shade of pale, rock the gorgeous skin tone of caramel, honey or ebony that you are, and don’t feel left out – because black is ALWAYS beautiful.

Beauty Breakdown – Keira Knightley by Kay Montano

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Keira Knightley - Makeup by Kay MontanoThe lovely Kay Montano was on a press junket for Keira Knightley last week, and this is the look she created for her. Unfortunately I don’t have a photo of the makeup that she did as it was meeting the press and not an actual photo shoot, but the photo I have included was makeup Kay did for Keira for a Chanel event in Paris earlier this year. Enjoy!

Base – Chanel Vitalumiere in Cendre 30  (Keira has a tan at the moment, so this is darker than she would normally use on her)

Powder – Chanel Translucent Loose Powder in 20 brushed onto T-zone

Eyes:

  • Chanel Eye Pencil in Ambre smudged into lashes
  • Chanel Exceptionnel mascara in black

Blush – Chanel Tea Rose blush

Lips – Chanel Rouge Hydrabase lipstick in Red Dream blotted on as a stain

In My Makeup Kit: MAC Face and Body foundation

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Mac Face and Body FoundationRecently I’ve had to radically downsize my kit, as you know what? My body doesn’t love me carrying my bodyweight in makeup to and from work every day.

So I’ve stripped my kit back to bare bones, re-tuned the chassis, super-charged the performance and fine-tuned it to just what I need.

One of the few foundations that survived the cull? MAC Face and Body (although I decanted the ass of them first, as they come in jumbo outsize bottles which I love, but they weigh a ton). I carry it in five colors, (although there are many more available) ranging from pure white to deep mahogany. I won’t go on a job without it, mainly for its extraordinary body improving abilities. It’s like a gym and a solarium in a jar (but with a lot less effort involved).

It evens out the skin tone, making it look smooth and polished, taking the color up a couple of notches, or many to a deep dark tan if desired. Or down to a Twilight pale glow if that’s more your speed. The finish can be built up with two coats to robotic and plasticized, or one coat for a more natural glow. Simply apply liberally with bare hands, smoothing it out – but be careful of pale colored clothing, as it can transfer. And it is literally the wonder-product for what I call ‘corned beef’ legs – pale, translucent, slightly blue, the color of well – you get the picture. And not what you want in a picture peeking out from a Prada dress.

Another lovely thing – it’s a beautiful, super sheer face foundation. Applied either with fingers or a brush it will give you the baby skin (you wish) you were born with.

Bag It – Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay in Place Concealer

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Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay in Place ConcealerI’m quite a recent convert to liquid concealers, and the Estee Lauder Double Wear is the reason for the change. Normally I’m a die-hard cream concealer fan, but this gives great coverage in a thin liquid that really does stay all day.

All the Estee Lauder Double Wear products (and there are now quite a few as they keep expanding the range) really are quite frankly, bullet proof.  The concealer is best for under eye areas as I find it’s liquid-y slip is perfect for covering dark circles, but probably not what I would reach for first for a blemish (that particular prize would go to either Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage or Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer).

As part of my ongoing commitment to hardcore summer testing processes, I even took this concealer into the pool yesterday (and underwater) and there was still some kindly erasing my dark circles after an afternoon swim. That’s how long lasting it is!

If you’re not one of those ladies who likes to constantly be reapplying her makeup – let’s face it, who is? Even I’m keener on the application than the re-application process, and that’s my job. So anything that means less touch-ups is a winner in my book. Bag It!

Bin It – Maybelline Lash Discovery Waterproof (but keep the brush)

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Maybelline Lash Discovery WaterproofIn my ongoing quest to discover the ultimate waterproof mascara I did a raid on Walmart yesterday. It was a smash and grab affair of L’Oreal, Maybelline and Revlon, (and it has to be confessed, two li-los for the pool WITH cup dispensers, God Bless America!). But yesterday’s poolside experiment was less than successful.

Maybelline Lash Discovery has one of the ace-est brushes ever – it’s a shrunken wand that allows you to get to every single little lash, including the bottom lashes that can be fiddly with a regular brush (and if you can do that with the outsized monster brush of Diorshow mascara, more power to you because you’re more woman than I am!)

And for the bottom lashes it’s great to have waterproof mascara as this is where you tend to get smudging, from oils and eye blinking. However, if this is the mascara you’re wearing underwater you are in big trouble as it smudges. Not massively, but enough to look like an under-eye shadow that on me looks like a giant puffy eye bag, not dissimilar to a Krispy Kreme donut (something else I have been enjoying whilst in America. Mmm, donuts). However, not something I want on my face. So for me I’m going to keep the brush, but for the mascara it’s Bin It!

Best. Waterproof. Mascara. Ever. (at least for this week)

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Cover Girl Waterproof MascaraCover Girl Volume Exact in Black

The fact that I’ve been kicking back and tanning, swimming in the pool and sipping frozen margaritas, you could be forgiven for thinking I’m on holidays. But I assure you that it’s a cover (a deep cover) for my real purpose, which is bringing you the best of American beauty – including finding the world’s best waterproof mascara.

I’ve been relentlessly testing, through sunscreen applications, evening cook-outs and trips to Austin’s Barton Springs in 45 degree heat, and this is the one that’s held up – Cover Girl’s Maximum Volume Waterproof Mascara.

It’s got a pliable rubber brush that gets to the base of every lash, and so far even with multiple coats it doesn’t create the dreaded Stick Lash.

And let’s be clear – this is no lightweight testing process. We’re talking underwater breastroke, twice-daily dips and margarita fuelled poolside frolics, and always, always I have smudge proof, splash-proof, sweet and fluffy lashes. Meaning I don’t have to look like an egg (my natural state without mascara), even though I’m poolside.

I’ll be continuing my stringent testing methods all this week and next, and there are a quite a few more things on my list, so I’ll keep you posted on what other little makeup gems I find. Sadly for my UK readers they will probably be mainly US products, since I plan to take full advantage of what’s on offer in the nirvana of the American drugstore. But if you do find something you really like, you can always buy it on www.drusgtore.com as they now ship overseas. Which is dangerous. Not as dangerous as my mascara testing, but someone’s gotta do it!

Secret Weapon: Duo Eyelash Adhesive

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Duo Eyelash AdhesiveAt Makeup Mole HQ we’re always looking for the best of everything – let’s face it, life is too short to deal with poor pigmentation, nasty and outdated color selections and downright inferior glamorization products.

So when faced with the challenge of false lashes, what does every makeup artist I know reach for? Duo Surgical Adhesive. It’s a tiny tube of lash attaching goodness that comes in black or white (although the white dries clear). The latex is gentle enough to hold the most diva of lashes but sturdy enough to hold even the most cantilevered of lash canopies all day (or night). As an added bonus it can also affix rhinestones, crystals or whatever makeup madness takes your fancy to the face or body.

If you’ve been batting 1000 and finding yourself with two spiders mating on your cheeks, it’s time to get out of the drugstore and go to the hardcore – MAC, or a theatrical supply shop like Screenface or Charles Fox in London both stock it.

It’s quite simply the best lash glue on the market. Because repeat after me: the lashes can be any old cheap-ass tranny affair, but the glue must be DUO!

Even if you’re wearing diamond encrusted, fox fur numbers (don’t laugh, it’s been done before – ahem, Madonna), if they’re hanging off your eyelid it’s a lot less luxe and a lot more crazy homeless person. Simply apply to the lash (or lash cluster), and wave it around for about ten seconds whilst the glue gets tacky, then cuddle the lash into your lash line. Provided you’ve done it right they will stay until you peel ‘em off.

If you’ve been battling with those nasty little tubes of no-name eyelash adhesive and wondering why you’re so rubbish at false eyelashes, try some Duo, and come back to me. It’s not you, it’s the glue!